Sewing Your Own Digital Pattern You Drafted, Printed And Cut Out

I cut my lemon tulip lingerie pattern out yesterday and looked it over,  going about the task of sewing it in my mind (yes I'm a little apprehensive,  I haven't sewn in a while,  about 2 years and don't know how well my machine is going to handle the work).   Aside from that though,  working with a pattern you've drafted yourself is an indispensable learning experience and this won't be the only time I do it.   I'm going to sew my own samples once I get started.

So what did I learn about patternmaking for this exercise so far?  Okay,  2 things at this time:  Take a look at the picture below of my pattern's sleeve pattern...

1.  Most of the cap on the finished sleeve to this to-be bias cut block is going to be gathered to hopefully create a bit of a "puff" to enhance the tulip shape.  So;  The area to be gathered should be marked from beginning to end,  and in this case with the top of the sleeve cap being notched on both sides of the sleeve overlap.  And oh oh,  I forgot the little arrows at the ends of my bias grainline.  And where are my annotations?   Ughhh,  well,  the patterns I did for my client have been getting a lot more professional since I did this one a while back,  so I won't get too mad at myself.

Next lesson:

Take a look at the original pattern this sleeve was drafted from.  Because the spread from the central underarm area isn't spread evenly (see the highest notch on either side nearest the center of the underarm),  with the difference in the degree of the spread between the front and back of the sleeve cap,  there will be an uneven ratio of fabric to gather.  One side is about 8" and need to be gathered to 4 1/8" and the other side is 5 inches and need to be gather to about 3".  Next time I'll know better.  So the rule is this,  make sure there's a uniform distance between each spread so your gathers will also be uniform.   I do think I read this before,  but now it's definitely crystallized...nothing like hands on you know.

Now,  I spent the morning preparing for my first portfolio piece.  I want to get everything right,  so I pulled out all my sewing books,  organized my sewing equipment,  dug up some old sewing machine needles,  cleaned my sewing machine,  pulled out my lovely fabric and ironed out all it's creases (see the photo below, I didn't buy this non-eco fabric, however,  it was given to me about 15 years ago and I never knew what to do with it till now) 

Photography tip here,  to take a beautiful shot of a piece of satin jacquard hang it off of something and put another light source on it to show off it's double textures and shine.

So,  now,  I'm going to take the little bit of fabric I took off the ends of this material and figure out which stitch length,  thread tension and thread size to use.   I'm thanking God that I won't have any top stitching to do because I don't have any yellow thread.  I'll have to use one of my white threads.  All the edging and hem work to do is going to be faced for a clean smooth edge.  I'm thinking about blind stitching the facing to the garment if necessary though.

Oh,  yeah,  I also have to cut out the pattern blocks.   I don't want to tailor tack the darts though as I don't want the fabric marred,  so I'm going to make a piece of graphite paper and trace the interior of the darts onto the fabric,  lightly though so it won't show up in the finished garment.

Also,  because I want everything to turn out perfect,  I'm making this an industrial sewing exercise,  I've got my books out and open to make sure:

-  all the seams are sewn in the right direction in orientation to fabric grain and garment block
- all seams are graded to the correct width
- everything will be pressed properly
- and all the right finishes are applied

This little project may take me a while to finish though as,  hey I'm scared,  but I love this project so much,   I got to do it,  but I want to do it totally right.

I'll be keeping you posted

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

The Patternmaker's Update: It's Been A Crazy Week

Okay,  so on our holiday weekend I'd planned to get my first portfolio piece completed,  I was raring to go and then I sat at the sewing machine to figure out stitch length and thread tension that would work for this beautiful but thin and slippery fabric I want to sew the lemon tulip lingerie pattern out of and...

The little rubber wheel that creates the traction necessary for new bobbin thread to be wound around a bobbin had melted into a gross black goo around the wheel it was supposed to be on.  And that wasn't all,  there was a piece of broken plastic from the socket that held the top thread spool,  so there was only one thing left to do. Open her up and see if I could fix the problem(s).  I'd found a crayon in the machine as well as the clip of marker top,  my daughter's doing for sure.

I've fixed a sewing machine I had before,  several times,  with success.   And I also repaired a scroll saw,  on my own,  again with success.  I took time and patients and all but I did it so I had no inhibitions about opening up this Brother sewing machine and seeing if I could get it up and running again.   Well after all was said and done, with an attempt to fit the wheel with a quintupled rubberband and then when I decided it wouldn't work because it was getting shredded,  I headed for the toy box in search of a little car.    Have you ever seen them? Little hard black rubber wheels,  they might have been just the thing I needed,  I did find one,  and I did fit 2 of the cars wheels on the bobbin mechanism,  but when I tried to run the machine, they too began to melt.  Yuck,  you know?   Okay,  so maybe the Brother company has the right wheel...I'll just have to email them,  I thought.

Then,  the needle bar somehow got misaligned too,  so that the needle completely missed the bobbin case.  No luck at all trying to figure that one out.  I did what I always do, compare adjacent pieces,  look for what looks like it's fitted wrong,  was there something sitting in the plastic case the wrong way?  Nothing made any sense.  Why did this time have to be a problem I couldn't fix?

WELL,  my husband came to my rescue and told me he'd get a new on for me on Monday,  which he did along with a new computer to replace this beat up HP laptop that's been giving me a hard time.   He's been watching me work on these computer patterns and get article projects done and realized I'm dead serious about what I'm into so he's offered his loving support and got me a beautiful new Singer sewing machine and a cool new Acer computer.

So I've been setting up the computer with all the programs and things I use to work and getting a new client's pattern completed (I actually just sent it off a few minutes ago).  It was my very first corset pattern for a designer in Saudi Arabia.  I hope they keep me on as a client.   It takes me a little longer to do work for a new client because I usually need to first prepare a brand new sloper for them from scratch,  they don't give me one.  I'm not sure why,  I guess they don't know about it.  I did hear that companies and designers are supposed to provide the patternmaker with the sloper in the size they want though.

Any while doing a bit of research this week also had me discover the reason behind the necessity of perfection in a patternmaker's work.   Thought it was just a pickiness thing?   Think again.  A person familiar with home sewing could easily make this mistake (I did for a while and I am a perfectionist) but the thing about homesewers,  as Kathleen Fasanella puts it, " homesewers expect too much from themselves"  they're highly skilled,  where as the people working in a factory are not and don't need to be.   This is why the pattern has to be perfect,  flawless without so much as a 1/32 of an inch mistake,  yes I'm not kidding you,  don't even allow yourself a 1/32 of an inch mistake.

Because,  the people working the factory sewing machines only have a small part of the garment to sew and they may not be aware how everything else is supposed to fit together they also won't know if something is a little off.  And the mistake will go from one person to the next,  no one knowing how to fix the problem, with chances being that the one mistake will cause additional mistakes and you'll end up with imperfect garments.   The horror.   And everyone will know it was your fault,  you are the one who made a mistake!

Any way,  how do you solve/prevent this problem all together, simple,  when you're working on the computer,  (God bless these things) set your nudge distance to 0.031 (this is the 1/32" I was talking about)  and work under a microscope,  in CorelDraw 9 for example,  this means zooming in till 1" is about 5" or 6" on the screen.  Make sure all your points,  lines and curves match up everywhere under this "microscope" and remind yourself that this attention to detail is what will set you apart from the rest.

And just for the sake of reference,  should any of you be using CorelDraw 9 to draft patterns,  like myself,  when you've powerclipped something into a 'container' to be able to cut it up into separate,  perfect panels,  make sure your cutting path ( this can be a straight or shaped line) isn't closed.  If it is a closed path for some reason the interior of this path gets rid of the pattern piece you're trying to slice through.

Okay,  so now I've got another dress pattern to do for my client in New York and I have to watch the dvd that came with the Singer sewing machine so I can start sewing with it fairly quick.  Maybe this weekend,  I'm hoping,  unless something else comes up.   But my deadline is either by the end of this month of April,  or at the very least the first week or two of May.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

The Patternmaker Needs To Get Good At Sewing (For Their Own Sake)

Weekends should always be devoted to your family (in addition to the time you set aside during the week for your family as well) but if you're going to do something for your business/career you should focus on those activities that don't necessarily make you any money right away but will help bring your career or business forward.   My personal example being my lemon tulip lingerie pattern.   I started sewing it today,  little machine sewing,  little hand stitching.

The first thing I'm working on is getting the facings and waist and bodice band together.  My past experience has been that small pieces get lost or damaged if you've got kids and pets so I'm avoiding the problem totally by hanging these sewn up sections on a hanger.   As for protecting my other work on the ironing board,  I've covered it all up with a blanket to keep my cats from putting pulls in my work.

I've started catchstitching the self fabric interfacing to the back bodice band already (see photo below)

and it had me reflecting on what Kathleen Fasenella said "a patternmaker should have exceptional sewing skills".   It's true for the benefit of both the clients in need of patternmaking services and the patternmakers themselves.   Speaking as an entry level patternmaker making money from providing this service I understand the reasons for this are:

1. being able to sew up your own patterns will crystalize several things:

     (a) where the notches need to be when you get confused
     (b) how much fabric a design actually needs
     (c) the fit resulting from your approach to drafting
    
2.  if your pattern turns out well,  you'll have full confidence in the product/service you're offering, you won't think it fit because you applied your knowledge of pattern drafting as well as you could,  but you KNOW your pattern is accurate.   This is confidence for a patternmaker.

3.  Confidence results in taking less time to do your work simply because your not hesitating any more about whether or not your making the right move.

Aside from all this perfection though,  I've got to make mention of how important is is not to be a perfectionist,  at least not right away.   My mom taught me how to sew and went a long way in inspiring me when it comes to fashion.  However,  she was a self proclaimed "non-perfectionist" which was good for me because it allowed me not to be quite so intimidated by the lengthy process of garment design,  development and construction.   Chances are, if she had enforced perfection,  I might not have took this career path.

Case in point,  I took my perfectionist attitude to my art and I didn't get nearly as far in developing my skills as an artist as I did in patternmaking and fashion design.   To this day I'm still intimidated by the thought of picking up a brush or pencil.  Although I do intend to overcome with this when I get the time.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Serious Progress on my Patternmaking Portfolio

I can't remember if I posted a link to my Patternmaking Portfolio I just put up a while ago,  if I didn't here it is: https://sites.google.com/site/ayisha1978designerpatternmaker/home/work-i-ve-completed-for-my-gracious-clients

Really though,  I should adjust the seo in that url.  The slideshow is a result of patterns I've drafted for another designer's collection.  I've got 3 collections of my own I should work on.  However,  for the moment I've been working on my first,  self designed portfolio piece,  the lemon tulip lingerie design.  Yesterday I was able to sew the skirt sections together,  using beautiful french seams,  and attached the hem facing to it's scalloped edge then clipped and understiched the seam.  Then I sewed the bodice sections together and pinned on the neckline facing.   Here are the pictures:

clipping the scalloped facing seam

right side of the skirt's scalloped edge

pin the corners of your scalloped facing to match correctly

didn't have the right pressing equipment to do a professional
job,  however, by using the tip of the iron and making tiny
pressing movements the resulting scallop edge turned out
very nicely

My first french seam,  such a beautiful seam,  it is time consuming
though, extra pressing is required and seam trimming.  One of my
books suggested to sew the first seam 1/4" press,  close and sew
it into another 1/4" seam,  this would have been messy though.  With
a little more research in two other sewing books,  you clip the seam
to 1/8" and then sew it into a 1/4" seam,  this is the correct way.



the completed skirt section,  ready for gathering
into the waist band

However,  as nice as the sewing is going,  I've discovered a 'lack of experience' issue with the drafting of the midriff area of the bodice,  it's got more ease than I meant for it to have.  Now I know a secret I have to learn more about (I actually love this kind of thing) Here it is:  

When you do a typical draft of a regular shoulder to waist pattern,  there's a little bit of ease at the waist unless you take it out and it will fit nicely.  But... if you draft a bodice pattern that reached down some where below the bustline, you'll discover that due to the inverse curve of the human body in that area,  there's quite a bit more ease than you'd like in a garment that supposed to be close fitting.   This is a very important detail to know,  especially if you want design or draft patterns for empire waist garments,  midriff designs or bras.   I probably would have learned this had I gotten my hands on the lingerie pattern drafting book I want to get.

Anyway,  my bodice ends just under the bust and I'm going to do a double check to see if I need to adjust the entire side seam or just the underbust edge. If so I'll determine the amount to take from each side seam at the underarms and then check how much more needs to be taken up at the midriff edge.  What ever needs to be taken up at the midriff,  I'm going to divide by 6,  with an amount taken up by each of the 4 darts (2 in the back and 2 in the front) and an amount at each side. (Mind you,  pattern wise, it'll look like I only took half the amount from the side seam).  

Then I'll have to adjust the midriff band accordingly as well as the bias cut tulip sleeves and take all the adjustments to my pattern in CorelDraw 9.  I'll complete that with some fitting notes for lingerie.  It will help to crystalize all the information. 

As for the skirt fit,  I'm pretty sure it'll be fitting like I want,  since it's at the waist and all,  I just hope it's going to have a bit of puff I was hoping for,  we'll see.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page



Patternmaking And Pattern Alteration On My Design

I sewed the scalloped neckline facing onto the bodice yesterday.  To all us sewing moms out there, who haven't done this sort of thing yet,  don't do it with a wiggly baby in your lap, it's not going to turn out the way you want it.  Big No No.  However,  here are a few "to do" notes, sew sharp curves very slowly,  think of machine stitching as taking one stitch at a time,  one stitch at a time,  stop and go,  stop and go.

The result will be a smoother stitching line,  greater symmetry.  I also lightly marked my stitching line this time to 'see' better what I was doing (See Below).  I also loosened up the pressure foot tension on my Singer sewing machine,  just wish it could have been lightened up even more,  as the fabric still wasn't as free to move as I would have liked (my make of machine only goes so far though).

I was thinking though,  this type of sewing is why it would be great to actually have a manual sewing machine still.

Once I did the fitting,  I realized it had too much ease,  here a few pictures to show it...

eeek!  too much ease in the pattern

I would need to distribute the ease take up evenly between the side seams,  front and back darts as well as between the bustline and midriff level so as not to through the pattern off balance.  So I took

3/8" from the side seams and 1/8" from each dart which is actually a total of 1" and 3/4" ease take up.  I'll have to take the changes to the midriff band as well.

Here are the results after I made the necessary pattern alterations...

pattern alterations made,  much better fit

Will have to adjust the armscye curves too... what to do about the bias cut sleeve pattern?   I didn't want to have a seam,  but I'll create 3/8" underarm seam without cutting it open.  I'll just clip it at the soft foldline and turn it inside out (as the  bias cut tulip sleeve was cut on a fold to prevent it from having a completely sewn sleeve hem).

If I had the money,  I would have made a muslin out of some organic cotton or something,  like I was supposed to,  totally you know?  But,  I didn't,  and I would also buy some additional fabric to make a new version because this light weight yellow damask fabric is so delicate.

I need proper pressing equipment too!

I was looking at a Calvin Klein collection afterwards though from back in 1991,  that was a good year,  miss those days, Check it out here from Fashion Channel on YouTube:

  

...and it had me thinking.   I may choose a simpler,  clean,  fitted cut for my next portfolio garment design.   After all is said and done, if a 'promotional' project is to ambitious before it has the proper backing (in either knowledge,  skill or finances) it can do more damage in a way, then the good. it will do.  But only in a way.

I've learned a lot though,  still on,  and it felt good to finally produce something from a pattern I drafted on the computer.  In the end,  it wasn't actually my computer drafting that was even the problem.  Everything was fine there,  I just didn't know how to draft that kind of pattern correctly (cropped midriff lingerie style garment)  and which finishing elements would work best for that kind of design.  That's why I'm going to be buying that lingerie book though, "Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear" by Ann Haggar.  I can't wait.

I really should have used a fine hand rolled hem along that scalloped edge,  I was just hoping to get a crisp clean edge with the faced hem,  next time I'll clip the hem allowance and roll it in place along a pre-sewn guideline.  That should work much better.  However,  I think I'd still like to use the facing approach with the neckline because I really like how it "stands" on the neckline,  see below...  I just love that.

So today,  I'm going to hopefully continue work on the skirt portion of this outfit,  that is if I'm able to get a little time.  I've got to take my kids out again to the park,  can't miss that,  especially not on a day like this.


If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

My Lemon Tulip Skirt Only Needs A Button Or Two Now

I just managed to finish my lemon tulip skirt portion of my portfolio piece today,  I had to blind slip stitch the waistband to the wrong side of the skirt and then tack the hen facing to the inside of the skirt edge with the same blind slip stitch.  I have to say,  after seeing how it looks,  I think I change my mind about wanting a fine hand rolled hem instead.  I really like the way this turned out.  Take a look below...

I love the way it curves gently outward from the waist then tapers to a narrow opening at the hemline...just like a tulip.  So lovely.  Now,  I remember hearing on Fashion File,  years ago,  they were talking about one of John Galliano Couture collections for Dior had such fine craftsmanship,  but that it was done with such a fine hand "...the clothes didn't look beat up".  I was afraid that once I tacked down the facing to the inside of the skirt that it be weighted down and look overworked instead of looking like...a tulip,  but it turned out great.   Thank God.

 I just have decide on what kind of closure type I'm going to use.  In a Threads Magazine article,  I read that any kind of closure on lingerie should act as additional embellishment and treated like jewelry.   Okay,  I've got to look for the right buttons then and make sure I've got 4 altogether,  two for the skirt and two for the bodice piece.

When I'm finished with this portfolio piece though,  I mean the entire look,  not just this skirt,  I'm going to put up another Patternmaking ad and include my portfolio link,  I think I'll redo the url for that thing too,  it's not great for Google pick up with the words it's using now.   I think I'm going to offer my old deal again too,  4 patterns at $35 EUR each get the 5th one free.

On another note now though,  I've put together a Pinterest board in dedication to my mom who has passed away.   I haven't been able to think about much else lately,  it troubles me that not enough people got to know just how wonderful and loving my mom was.  She had an extremely well rounded range of interests and concerns for many things,  the kind of things that mattered.   I miss her very much and wanted to share what I could about her character.  Here is the link to the Pinterest I made for her:   http://pinterest.com/ayisha1978/all-about-mom/ and the photo of her that I'm going to use as the cover.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

What Buttons To Use On My Lemon Tulip Skirt And Other Considerations

Okay,  I'm faced with the decision of which buttons to use on my design.  I don't have that many and don't want to buy anything that isn't eco friendly.  So here are the following options I've got to choose from coming out of my old button can...

I love these buttons,  and there wouldn't actually be a decision to make if I had two more  smaller versions of these buttons,  but I only have two and one large crystal flower button.

I like these marble,  crystal buttons but they're a bit heavy for the fabric and don't quite suite the design or the fabric color.

These metal ball buttons are a little quirky for the design,  but there's something about the combination I like a lot,  can't quite put my finger on it

These buttons match and all,  but they don't add any character to the design and all though they're the right size and weight,  I don't care for them too much.

After all is said and done,  I think I'm going to actually finish the bodice portion of the lemon tulip look before I decide which buttons to use.

I've got to decide how I'm going to go about trimming down the ease for the bodice bands,  however,  and then transfer the changes to the digital pattern.  I'm going to make the digital changes later,  as for the actual fabric pieces with the interfacing sewn in and things,  hmm.  I don't actually want to cut into that.  If I sew a seam down the center I guess that could fix the problem but there'd be a bulk issue and a new seam.  Or,  I could figure the amount to take off the sides,  cut off the necessary amount,  while making sure to include seam allowance. That way I could preserve the center notch.  This means I'll be taking off 5/8" off each side seam of the bodice bands.

After that I'll have to stay stitch the double sided tulip sleeves after taking in 6/8" from the under arm seam I'll have to create.  If I sew this pattern up again,  it won't have that seam though.  I'll be putting in the gathering stitches too and prepare to sew the sleeves into a french seam.   Can't wait to see how the french seam is going to work with the double sided tulip sleeve.  I hope the shape and curve of the sleeve will turn out the way I wanted too.

As for the interior closures for the design,  I'm going to leave it to a couple pairs of hooks and eyes since they'll be out of sight.

Any comments and suggestions about the buttons I should use are welcome,  thanks.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Only The Buttons Left To Do On My Lemon Tulip Pattern

Okay,  I've got to fess up,  this post is a week late as I did all this work last weekend and simply wasn't able to write a post for the life of me due to housework.   It's a shame,  but here are the photos of my finished look. My only complaints about the finished design,  is that I think I should have made the waist and midriff band half the width (I just had to say that),  I wish there was at least an extra 1/2" of ease in the waistband and the sleeves,  although every bit as beautiful as I wanted them to be,  should have been a bit shorter by at least 2".  I'll be sure to put in all these tweaks when I re-work the pattern.

Other than that,  there are only the buttons left to put in and those are going to be the metal ball buttons.  I still liked them after I had the garments sewn up,  they're a little quirky for the design,  I know,  but I like them,  it fits anyway.  I'm not so sure about the lingerie part though actually,  lol,  after watching a few Tinkerbell movies,  great 3D movies there,  I think my design is more of a fairy costume,  so funny.  I'll have to do some serious lingerie another time, Oh hold it,  I had an idea for a piece a few months back,  I should work it out for my portfolio...!  Awesome idea there.  I think I want to do my jacket design anyway though.  Now to decide which one I'm going to work on first.   

It might have to wait till next weekend though because I've got a pile of dishes sitting in the kitchen (note,  I didn't restrict it to 'sink'  eeeck!)  and unfortunately my article writing suffered this week so I've got to make that up too.

I've got another confession to make as well,  out of all the "how to" fashion books I've read,  pattern making,  sewing secrets,  couture sewing,  designer details,  pattern grading and even various book on the fashion industry but .... after all is said and done,  I realized last week that I've never actually read a book on Fashion Design.  Isn't that crazy?   I've got to get another book on pattern making,  either dealing with women's suites,  specialty patternmaking or patternmaking for lingerie,  but my next book purchase will have to also include a book on Fashion Design,  as in the design process that goes into collection development.  I've already got a list of books I'm going to be picking from.

I'll have to choose between a book that focuses on the process itself from the perspective of a fashion school professor or another that focuses on the history of fashion design and the process.  (I'm a sucker for history so this is a tough choice).   Soon as I get my web cam up and running, or get a real camera,  I'll start making book reviews of all the cool books I've been reading,  or rather have read on fashion and patternmaking.

Any way,  I didn't eat anything yet since early this morning either so I better get busy with my non-fashion work for now :(

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Surviving As A Self Taught Pattern Maker

Oh man,  patternmaking work is dry right now.  What happened?  Could this be a crashed economy thing happening?  Could this lack of work be simply because I don't have a great portfolio right now,  or could it just be because there's just so little money going around that designers that are just starting out can't afford to go forward themselves till things get a little better?   I hate wondering about that,  bad economy or not though,  I've got to keep going with my patternmaking work,  otherwise I'll never get anywhere with it.   I hope the economy improves,  not only is it scary for work to be so hard to get,  but it also sad that so many people,  all over the world are having it so bad right now,  it's frightening too.

I'm not one to live by my fears,  but the thought has crossed my mind more then once,  that maybe I'm doing all this for nothing because if the world gets to be a tougher place,  people aren't going to be too worried about designer clothes,  kind of like what happened in France during German occupation,  the Germans felt like French use of fabric and resources was a big waste so they stopped pretty much all fashion production,  design and all.  In fact, if it weren't for Arabs and their passion for dressing their princesses in the finest,  couture as we know it would have been dead long ago.  Because it was after German occupation that the Arabs successfully revived the industry through demand.  Interesting story there.   So who knows what could happen in the coming years. We could see a temporary 'death' of fashion and when the world completes this stage it's going through,  a new perspective and approach will take place in regards to fashion.  The "industry" is probably going to become completely redefined.   And the green movement will most likely play a major role in all of it.

I'm not just going to wait though,  I've got a game plan,  I'll always work on my patternmaking and fashion design,  no matter what,  even if there isn't any,  or much money in it,  however,  I've taken an animal care specialist course and will review it again if I need to get a job once both my kids are in school (that is if my patternmaking doesn't start bringing in more money by then).  And on an even more practical note,  if I do get work as a vet assistant,  I'll also take a course in Pharmaceutical assistant and a TEFL course (teaching English As A Foreign Language) so I'll be able to make money anywhere.

That's all about 2 years away though,  for now I'm just going to keep up what I'm doing here, struggling to not let my article work drown out my time as patternmaker and designer for the sake of living expenses.   I'm going to try and get a few books that will hopefully further my fashion related endeavors,  the first of which pretty much are number in the order I think I'll try to get them in:

1.  Fashion Design Course: Principles, Practice, and Techniques: the Practical Guide for Aspiring Fashion Designers by Faerm, Steven 

2.  Fashion 101: a Crash Course in Clothing by Stalder, Erika And Krietzman, Arie 

3.  The Fashion Designer's Directory of Shape and Style: Over 600 Mix-and-Match Elements for Creative Clothing Design (Barron's Educational) by Simon Travers-Spencer, Zarida Zaman 

4.  Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear by Ann Haggar (very important for some close fitting garments and special occasion wear,  not just undergarments)

5.  The Entrepreneur's Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing by Kathleen Fasanella, Andree Conrad

6.  Pattern Cutting for Women's Tailored Jackets by Winifred Aldrich

Hope to be ordering some of them soon if I can, I'll cross my fingers.  As for what I've been doing lately outside of writing and family busy-ness,  I've recently opened up my FaceBook Page "Fashion Patternmaking And Design" were I'll be offering

-  my digital patternmaking services to anyone looking for a patternmaker (if you're interest just visit my page or email me at stylistwithacause@gmail.com)

-  basic block patterns in different standard sizes (Butterick's sizes that is) for designers and home sewers looking for something to start designing their own clothes with

-  and the patterns for my own designs as I get the time to develop them

I've also opened a basic pattern block drafting gig on Fiverr,  for anyone who needs a particular size basic block pattern,  here's the link: I will draft a basic digital bodice or skirt pattern block in the size you require for $5

And from now on each of my blog posts will end with all 4 of these links below:

If you're interested in my digital pattern making service (at $35 per garment pattern) contact me at stylistwithacause@gmail.com or on my FaceBook page "Fashion Patternmaking And Design"

If you would just like to order basic pattern blocks for bodice,  torso,  coat/jacket or skirt you can place an order for the size and kind you need here at  my fiverr gig where I will draft a basic digital bodice or skirt pattern block in the size you require for $5

Want more information on the industry and online schools?  Check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

Want to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

I've Got Pattern Making Work!

Wow,  this was some kind of day,  out of the blue,  I got a pattern client who happened to stumble across my blog.   She wants me to draft up the patterns for her line of childrens' clothing.   I had to draft up a size 5 children's bodice and sleeve to prepare for it,  fortunately,  even though my little girl is 3, she wears a size 5 so that's worked out just fine and I've got the size 5 blocks to start working on in the morning.

I want to see if I can complete a garment pattern a day for this lady.  As she does need them done by Friday,  I'll cross my fingers about the one pattern a day thing.  I love to do the three patterns that quickly. I may be getting more work from my hat pattern client too.

In all this strong prospective client thing going on,  it was kind of funny,  I wasn't able to finish those tweeks to my lemon tulip lingerie pattern again,  even though I hauled out my dress form and everything this morning.  Oh well,   maybe next weekend.  At least this time the thing that stopped me was patternmaking work :),  big    big plus there.   If I get a little extra time I'm going to email the other client of mine,  the design student over in New York,  see how she's been doing lately.


If you're interested in my digital pattern making service (at $35 per garment pattern) contact me at stylistwithacause@gmail.com or on my FaceBook page "Fashion Patternmaking And Design"

If you would just like to order basic pattern blocks for bodice,  torso,  coat/jacket or skirt you can place an order for the size and kind you need here at  my fiverr gig where I will draft a basic digital bodice or skirt pattern block in the size you require for $5

Want more information on the industry and online schools?  Check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

Want to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

In Need Of A Discount Digital Pattern Cutting Service?

If you are looking for a pattern cutting services as in an individual who can provide you with pattern drafting / pattern making skills to provide you with finished garment patterns, and you're also looking for a discount, then you've come to the right place.

Unlike other pattern makers I don't charge the high fees for my discount digital pattern making services. As a beginner in the industry, I will draft your clothing patterns for only $35 per garment item, and include free alterations should your pattern(s) need any adjustments.

The first step in my pattern cutting service will include a free drafting of a basic bodice pattern called a sloper, in the size or sizes you require, ( according to the Butterick standard size chart). Then the appropriate blocks which are also completed free of charge will be constructed for the given garment design and the pattern cutting process for your design(s) will begin.

Depending on the complexity of your garment design your pattern may take 1 - 3 days to be completed and delivered as a full size printable jpeg file via email.

Information I will need in order to start the pattern making process for your designs will include the following:

- fabric weight and type

- required seam width

- desire hem width

- desired garment fit

- intended garment closures if applicable

- size (as compliant with Butterick standard size charts)

I will also require an illustration, photo or drawing of the garment(s) for which you need patterns drafted for as well as a similar visual reference for the back of the garment and details regarding any unseen elements to be included in the pattern.

Once complete, I will email your pattern to you via the email address you've provided. You'll then be able to take your digital pattern file to your local print shop or print services to have them print out your garment pattern(s).

Aside from pattern cutting / drafting, I also provide pattern digitization and can convert your flat paper or fabric pattern to digital jpeg format so it can be converted into an accurate digitally reproduction with clean, consistent seam widths and identical, correctly placed notches.

If you are interested in this pattern cutting or digitization service or you have any questions please email me for more information at stylistwithacause@gmail.com

How To Make A Pattern For Fashion Design

Have you designed some clothes or a collection you want to get made and can't go forward because you don't know how to make a pattern and you can't afford to hire a patternmaker? Many aspiring designers and home sewers run into a bit of problem brining their own fashion designs to life because they lack pattern cutting skills and the field of pattern cutting is rather daunting for many. However, there is a very cheap short cut you can take to easily learn how to make a pattern for your fashion designs.

In pattern cutting you always start with a basic bodice pattern or the phase 2 sloper made from it, for example the blouse sloper would be used for a blouse design and a torso block would be used for dress pattern cutting.

(click image to see a larger version)

While its ideal to learn how to draft these basic pattern slopers / blocks from scratch either from a book like Connie Amaden Crawford's Patternmaking Made Easy” or from an online video draping lesson or an actual fashion design course that teaches pattern drafting, you can purchase the basic bodice blocks from companies like Butterick or from patternmakers such as myself (click to see my basic bodice block service on Fiverr). Or, if you have an existing fitted blouse or dress pattern with a bust or shoulder dart as well as a waist dart or fisheye dart, you can tweak it to your own measurements if needed (ease elimination) and bust point location (if it's not already accurate).

(click image to see a larger version)

If you have a bodice pattern or blouse or dress pattern with a waist / fish eye and bust dart you'll need to pivot the art to the center shoulder seam to create a true basic bodice pattern block, particularly if the garment you've designed is a princess seam style.

There should be only 3/4" ease in the armscye / armhole depth and 1/2” ease at the the armscye side seam corner. Also, there should be no ease in the waist for your basic bodice sloper. The neckline should lie just above the central collar bone at the front and it should just hit the bottom of the neck at the back.

Once you've got your bodice pattern complete you're ready to start drafting the second block which usually involves adding a bit more ease (typically at the waist/hips or armholes) or pivoting the darts from the bust point into different locations (this is done by drawing and slashing a new dart placement line, then cutting out the original dart take up and closing it to allow the new dart to open so it can be filled in with paper and the new bodice or torso block can be made) or converting this dart ease to gathering or pleats. Note: This is called dart manipulation. Darts should always be pivoted from the bust point because if they aren't your resulting patterns and garments won't hang or sit correctly.

(click image to see a larger version)

(click image to see a larger version)

If ease was eliminated from the armscye seam the sleeve pattern may also need to be adjusted if there is more than 1 1/2" ease in the sleeve cap. Leaving at least 1" ease in the sleeve cap,  determine the amount of ease to be eliminated.  This amount will need to be divided into three equal portions. Then half the length of one portion is how much you'll overlap the sleeve sections once you have the sleeve pattern cut out and slashed correctly.

To correctly slash the sleeve, first cut away all the sleeve seam allowances then fold the sleeve in half, matching underarm seams. Then fold again matching the centre fold line to the underarm seams. Each of these fold lines should then then be slashed to just before the wrist then overlapped by the previously determined amount.

If the sleeve pattern is for a fitted sleeve, the alterations method is simple an you most likely won't need to adjust the wrist ease or just a bit.

However, if the sleeve has excess wrist ease and the pattern you want to make is more fitted, reduce the ease by measuring your elbow circumference (if you're a size 14 or over,  add 1 1/2" ease). Draw half the length of the the new elbow circumference line from the centre of the sleeve outward along the sleeve's original elbow line. Then draw a line from the the armscye / side seam point to the wrist and cut away the excess ease.

On a new sheet of paper draw a new sleeve cap line then measure it to make sure it matches the combined front an back armscye measurements plus at least 1" and no more then 1 1/2" and that the shoulder seam notch at the top of the sleeve is offset only 1/4" toward the front, past the true sleeve center.   Should your sleeve have inadequate ease (less then 1") then reverse the above ease reduction process,  to instead slash and spread to add ease. 

Correct all your front and back matching notch positions on your sleeve and bodice pattern blocks and you're done.

Now, if you happen to have a scanner and also use a vector program like Adobe Illustrator or Corel Draw, you can scan your completed bodice patterns into the computer and re-create them as vector files and then actually conduct dart manipulations in these software applications (the technique I use in my pattern cutting work).

With these basics on how to make a pattern you can easily go from there and start developing your own clothing design patterns or you can conduct further research online or at your library for additional patternmaking tips on style elements such as collars, sleeve types and more as well as other learn other pattern cutting secrets.

If you are interested in my pattern cutting or digitization service however,  or you have any questions,  please email me for more information at stylistwithacause@gmail.com or visit my Facebook page to learn more.

Practical Pattern Cutting Tips

As I work on my pattern cutting work,  (I've got a few clients at the moment after not actually having any for a while) I realize having gotten a bit rusty in a few areas has it's benefits of helping crystallize some key procedures that need to take place during the drafting of a pattern.

First,  sometimes when you have a cool design to do for your designer,  say you really like the style lines in the garment, you may be tempted to start drafting up the style lines on the pattern sloper before you take care of deciding the exact placement of where the silhouette and length lines should be.  Don't do this, you'll make the pattern cutting a repetitive process of adjusting and re-adjusting as you re-tweek style lines to properly accommodate the designer's intended look.

Second,  notches.  When you've drafted the main pattern blocks for a garment,  you may sometimes be tempted to start placing your notches in their corresponding places (don't put them on the center of any seam lines though,  as pieces can get sewn upside down and miss-matched this way).  This is not the right time to notch so don't fall for it.  You've got to make sure you've decided on you facing shape lines( if you're using facings) and drafted the other attached but smaller pattern pieces first so that it's easier and quicker to place accurate notches,  in all their correct places rather then having a couple notching and notch adjusting sessions.

Third,  whenever possible do all similar work on your pattern as a single step in the over all process of drafting your pattern.  This doesn't include measuring though (for example,  when you draft a basic bodice pattern,  you've got to measure the armscye to correctly check the curve on the sleeve block before preceding with anything else).  However,  when you've got your basic sloper set up for a design,  do all the silhouette and length drafting first such as neckline depth, waistline placement,  hems,  sleeve lengths etc.  Zipper and button plackets are next.  Then place your style lines on each of the pieces.  Then draft your facings,  hem facings and hems lengths.  In digital pattern making I create my facings by setting up a shaped line that will be used to 'cut' through a copy of the main pattern block so that the seams and shapes will be identical to the main garment block.  However,  I don't 'cut' the facing out till all the notching work is complete so that I can simply copy the notches as well as the facing pieces to eliminate double measuring of notch placements.

So when you're drafting up your patterns,  keep these practical pattern cutting procedures in mind to speed up your work and help keep it more accurate as well.  After all,  accuracy is just about everything in pattern making.  And as they say,  time is money.

If you are interested in my discount digital pattern cutting or digitization service however,  or you have any questions,  please email me for more information at stylistwithacause@gmail.com or visit my Facebook page to learn more.

Grading Shortcut For Patternmaker's Without Pattern Maker Software

Wow,  sorry there's often so much time between posts,  it's been a struggle between projects,  my kids devouring computer time and other responsibilities but,  I never forget about my patternmaker blog and while I get more experience in pattern cutting and grading I'm slowly coming across different shortcuts and techniques as well.

I haven't actually gotten around to doing any grading work on my sloper library lately,  but this weekend I figured out a way to grade both the front and back sloper sections simultaneously to save a bit of time.  This is how I managed it:

First you've got to slice your sloper sections up in the required areas,  then,  because the sliced portions of the front and back sections have to spread apart the same amount of distance all you really need to do is group together the corresponding vertical and horizontal portions and move them to where they need to be.   See below for an example:

Vertical Sections Selected For Spreading

Horizontal Sections Selected For Spreading

Now,  when your doing any kind of patternmaking work, grading or drafting,  you've got to always check things over,  your measurements of everything,  the 1/2" difference between the front and back sections and their armscye curve measurements,  then the sleeve curve ease and the shoulder notch.  All are small things,  but even in computer software,  if you're not using pattern maker software,  you could accidentally move something or even resize something and through off all your work.  

I spent the weekend tweeking my previous slopers to make sure measurements were in order,  no errors or anything that could pose a problem and then got started with grading my bodice sloper and it's sleeve up to size 12.   Yes,  I'm still working on grading up to Butterick size 24 so I can work with some online clothing companies I want to do business with.   I'm very excited getting my own patterns drafted finally.  But about doing business as a designer or patternmaker,  you've got to know what you're getting into and get ready for the long haul if you're not going to a complete, "you're going to learn everything" kind of fashion design course.  

First of all,  checking out my competition,  other patternmakers don't just have portfolios and years of awesome experience with designers everyone's heard about.   I've noticed patternmakers online offer a full range of services from pattern cutting,  grading,  sample making,  marker preparation,  spec sheets,  the works.  Basically, you want to have friends that do these things or you want to know how to do all of these things single handedly.  It's tough.  But,  don't shy away from it if this is what you want to do,  all I tell myself for example,  is that it's all a matter of reading a few more books and working on these skills.  That's pretty much all it takes.  Never let the time something may take deter you from learning how to do something you want to do, just do it.

As both a patternmaker and hopeful designer, while doing other people's patterns and eventually drafting my own patterns so I can get boutiques to sell my designs,  once the photos from their promotional campaigns start coming in,  I'll have my portfolio coming together without any extra cost and what could be cooler then that?  How long is this going to take??  Maybe another year or two I'm thinking,  but that's fine because it'll just get me more experience under my belt and I'll develop the confidence to take my endeavors to the next step like working for a company or a couple companies as a regular staff member or service provider.  :)  hehehe,  New York,  Paris,  Milan... Vancouver and Dubai here I come.

If you are interested in my discount digital pattern cutting or digitization service however,  or you have any questions,  please email me for more information at stylistwithacause@gmail.com or visit my Facebook page to learn more.

Secrets Of How To Expand Your Patternmaking Skills

Okay,  I've read the best book on patternmaking by Connie Amaden Crawford,  and it's a good one,  better than the first one I bought.   However,  once you're "in the field" and dealing with clients,  you learn something real fast...you didn't learn everything you need to know.  Not by a long shot.  Clients will always ask you for something that will be undiscovered territory for you,  be it a bra,  or tailored suit or, oh horrors (just kidding) an unusual size.  Okay so here's what you do.

1.  first of all get real practice in,  you'll learn soon enough that you want more educational resources

2.  even though pattern grading and alterations are actually different job descriptions,  as in people get paid to these things,  like only those things,  as a patternmaker,  it would seriously behove you to learn them,  and quickly

3. think specialization and seek out the available resources,  I'll get specific here

(a) there's a chance someone will want a tailored suit,  find books on patterncutting,  patternmaking for tailored suites,  you need to do lingerie patterns for another client,  hurry up and find a book on patternmaking for lingerie,  not sewing lingerie,  patternmaking for lingerie,  this will have more info on what you need where as the sewing type instruction book will have those less fitted designs you could have drafted on your own any way,  that's not what your clients are asking for

(b) clients sometimes ask for their own size,  they're fashionista designers and they fit into tiny clothes but they aren't the exact size of industry fit models so you need to learn pattern alterations,  another reason for this,  if a client is in a niche size market,  say for a really big cup size and shape,  then you'll definitely need pattern alteration skills,  go to Amazon and look up pattern alteration books and dvds.  Also do a google search for pattern alterations,  you'll find ideas on people's blogs,  there are a lot of them,  as well as books,  classes,  dvds,  see what people are saying before you spend your money though.

(c) definietly get a book on grading,  clients don't ask for one little size,  your clients will ask for all kind of sizes and the reason you want to know how to grade corrrectly is because you'll need and want to know how to take the basic bodice you know is a perfect fit and grade it into a perfect bodice of another size without serious fitting issues for your new clients. 

Speaking of which,  I've just ordered Connie Amaden Crawford's Pattern Grading workbook and can't wait to get it,  to be sure.  I've looked up grading info online and learnt some great stuff,  but I don't really have the confidence I need to know,  that I know what I'm doing for sure,  I just have the courage to keep going.  There's a difference,   believe me.

Okay,  I hope all you fellow aspiring patternmakers out there have found this at least somewhat enlightning.  Also,  as I collect more educational resources,  books and dvds,  I'll post the reviews of them here on my blog too.  So be sure to come back again.

Good news is too,  I was finally able to get through the Squidoo so that I can start editing and publishing changes on my lenses again,  so hopefully between my current patternmaking client and article client I'll find a few moments here and there to update my two fashion lenses.  Or I might leave it for a few weeks still.  I'll make it easy and post announcements here for you guys.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:
The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page