Okay, first word to anybody trying to become a fashion designer without going to school to do so. My dears, my poor poor dears please listen to me very carefully, this is not Chanel's era, we all need to do things differently now, you must learn everything you need to know as a fashion designer before you attempt to wing it on partial knowledge, okay? This is what just happened to me, I contacted a clothing company and they were interested in my designs and wanted to acquire the specs for my garment designs, I don't yet have pattern making skill though and had actually forgotten about the technical aspects of fashion illustrations (the flat 'technical' line drawings used by the pattern makers) and so, there is no practical way to for the company to do business with me in the way that this business is run now. And that's okay, because although I've been dis-illusioned and dis-appointed I was aiming to learn all I had to know as a fashion designer any way. So I haven't of course been knocked off my path. I haven't and you shouldn't be either. Just keep going and focus on the next step in front of you and not how long the journey is.
Anyway though, I've joined the fashion industry network and I've been making a few friends along the way. There are also some products that I know are going to help me out in my path and here's a list of which wonderful things they are: The Lutterloh Pattern Making System, Islander Sewing's Industrial sewing training DVDs and 'Il Figurino Di Moda' Fashion Design Techniques Book and the Portfolio Presentation for Fashion Design book (I've just ordered this last one) So I'm digging in my heals like usual and continuing to find my way.
I wish you all a wonderful day,
Ayisha (Emma)
Showing posts with label fabric. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fabric. Show all posts
Sunday, June 29, 2014
Wednesday, May 21, 2014
Climate Change and the Future of Fashion
We love the fantasy and beauty of fashion, a love that borderlines on being a helpless addiction for some and why shouldn't it? It's art and nearly the ultimate expression of the beauty and love of life itself. But what many of us dedicated fashionista's, stylists and fashion designers may not know is that fashion is one of our biggest sources of pollution.
As much as I hate to admit to it it's true, but the reality is taht if we love our planet as well as our fashion we need to look at how fashion pollutes so we can stop it and help save both our planet and our continuous creation of fashion.
How does fashion pollute? What are the factors we need to put an end to?
Take a look...
natural fibers (example: cotton and flax)
Pollution caused
- pesticides and fertilizers used in crop production pollute water systems and often effect the bird and bee population
- non-biodegradable bleaches, dyes and finishing chemicals used in textile production that again pollute water systems
- fossil fuels used in the production and transport of textiles and fibers
synthetic fabrics (example: polyester, acrylic, nylon, spandex)
Pollution caused
- sythetic filiments produced to create polyester, acrylic and other synthetic textiles are basically polymers, leaving us with the same pollution problems as we have with plastic production, after we've thrown our clothes away we'll have a surplus of these waste materials in the environment for 1000s of years to come
- chemical additives, dyes and finishes as well as special chemical treatments, all non-biodegradable, used in their production, polluting water systems around manufacturing facilities
- fossil fuels used in the production and transport of textiles and fibers
As with the other textiles that are in between natural and synthetic such as rayon, they also have similar pollution creation factors attached to them.
As for wool, leather and fur we've got the pollution factor of methane gas, a major green house gass associated with the production of livestock for commercial use) as well as serious animal cruelty issues we don't want when it comes to the treatment of sheep and the killing of animals for their hides.
Now this is not to say we should put fashion in the closet for good for the sake of our planet, this does mean though that we need to put an end to how we pollute throught the production of fashion.
In my next blog post we'll look at the possibilities and solutions necessary to create a new fashion industry using sustainability concepts.
As much as I hate to admit to it it's true, but the reality is taht if we love our planet as well as our fashion we need to look at how fashion pollutes so we can stop it and help save both our planet and our continuous creation of fashion.
How does fashion pollute? What are the factors we need to put an end to?
Take a look...
natural fibers (example: cotton and flax)
Pollution caused
- pesticides and fertilizers used in crop production pollute water systems and often effect the bird and bee population
- non-biodegradable bleaches, dyes and finishing chemicals used in textile production that again pollute water systems
- fossil fuels used in the production and transport of textiles and fibers
synthetic fabrics (example: polyester, acrylic, nylon, spandex)
Pollution caused
- sythetic filiments produced to create polyester, acrylic and other synthetic textiles are basically polymers, leaving us with the same pollution problems as we have with plastic production, after we've thrown our clothes away we'll have a surplus of these waste materials in the environment for 1000s of years to come
- chemical additives, dyes and finishes as well as special chemical treatments, all non-biodegradable, used in their production, polluting water systems around manufacturing facilities
- fossil fuels used in the production and transport of textiles and fibers
As with the other textiles that are in between natural and synthetic such as rayon, they also have similar pollution creation factors attached to them.
As for wool, leather and fur we've got the pollution factor of methane gas, a major green house gass associated with the production of livestock for commercial use) as well as serious animal cruelty issues we don't want when it comes to the treatment of sheep and the killing of animals for their hides.
Now this is not to say we should put fashion in the closet for good for the sake of our planet, this does mean though that we need to put an end to how we pollute throught the production of fashion.
In my next blog post we'll look at the possibilities and solutions necessary to create a new fashion industry using sustainability concepts.
Sunday, January 5, 2014
Chapter 12 Kimonos and Raglans or Chapter 13 Sleeve Drafts pattern making practice?
Another patterm making weekend, study/practice that is. I just completed chapter 11 dealing with drafting collars and hoods. Chapter 12 of Connie Amadon Crawford's Pattern Making Made Easy is dealing with Kimono and Raglan block construction, however, the next Chapter (13) is dealing with sleeve blocks, which I need to draft the Kimono and Raglan blocks, so I've decided to do Chapter 13 (the sleeve chapter) first. Looks like there's a really neat new way to draft sleeves too. The tecnique is based on a arm size measurement table, love those kind of guidelines. I also love learning all these different processes to drafting patterns. I remember thinking that patternmaking was some kind of illusive, magical art, which maybe a cute, sometimes inspiring way to look at things, but it can become a little daunting when you actually try to develop patternmaking skills without having proper instructions to follow and that's not really a good thing. Thanks to Connie's book I see pattern making as an adventure in practical geometry, based on clothing the human figure, all math, curves and a welcome comfortable logic. Lots of nice rules to follow to help you along too, taking the guess work out of the picture and of course laying the foundation for experimental changes and alterations.
I thought I was going to be able to just buy my dress form in a few weeks or less, well, I'm not going to be able to do that, however, I've started saving a little of all the money I make off my writting gigs :) to put toward my dressform. I can't wait to have the beautiful thing in my home. I'll have to mark it on my own but that's okay, I even like the idea (I might even decorate it, hehehe). What I've done is just started leaving 20 - 30 dollars what ever is a bit more than my usual $100 + writing project (usually a whole batch of article re-writes) and I am pretty close to what I need, just got to make sure I've got enough for shipping and handling for my dressform as well. I'm thinking I may be able to buy it at the end of the month which ain't really bad at all.
I want to make something clear to all you readers out there that may be wondering "but if she's already making patterns without a dressform, why is she buying one anyway?" Well, just let me square up about the situation, I have sewn and made my own clothes for quite a few years (since I was 13 or so) however you can imagine how errored those patterns were :(, I couldn't help it though, I just had to do it right? Well same thing here, my familiarity with basic pattern shapes helped me draft a bodice without a dressform, done just well enough as an educational tool to continue developing the rest of the blocks in the book. But these blocks are a bit distorted, and I don't like that. So, to get my patterns drafted perfectly, I obviously need what they all say, that lovely dressform. Working on the book ahead of time has just cut down my preparation time to be able to create ready to use patterns. When I'm done with this practice, I'll make the 24 or so basic blocks over again from dressform bodice draft and I'll be good to go. Just thinking about this is very exciting :) Any way, I got to throw some bread pudding in the oven and get started with my sleeve drafting practice. .
If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources
If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:
The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page
I thought I was going to be able to just buy my dress form in a few weeks or less, well, I'm not going to be able to do that, however, I've started saving a little of all the money I make off my writting gigs :) to put toward my dressform. I can't wait to have the beautiful thing in my home. I'll have to mark it on my own but that's okay, I even like the idea (I might even decorate it, hehehe). What I've done is just started leaving 20 - 30 dollars what ever is a bit more than my usual $100 + writing project (usually a whole batch of article re-writes) and I am pretty close to what I need, just got to make sure I've got enough for shipping and handling for my dressform as well. I'm thinking I may be able to buy it at the end of the month which ain't really bad at all.
I want to make something clear to all you readers out there that may be wondering "but if she's already making patterns without a dressform, why is she buying one anyway?" Well, just let me square up about the situation, I have sewn and made my own clothes for quite a few years (since I was 13 or so) however you can imagine how errored those patterns were :(, I couldn't help it though, I just had to do it right? Well same thing here, my familiarity with basic pattern shapes helped me draft a bodice without a dressform, done just well enough as an educational tool to continue developing the rest of the blocks in the book. But these blocks are a bit distorted, and I don't like that. So, to get my patterns drafted perfectly, I obviously need what they all say, that lovely dressform. Working on the book ahead of time has just cut down my preparation time to be able to create ready to use patterns. When I'm done with this practice, I'll make the 24 or so basic blocks over again from dressform bodice draft and I'll be good to go. Just thinking about this is very exciting :) Any way, I got to throw some bread pudding in the oven and get started with my sleeve drafting practice. .
If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources
If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:
The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page
Wednesday, December 11, 2013
My Lack Of Patternmaking Tools - I Can Cut It
Working on those patternblocks, aiming to having everything (at least my slopers) complete by the end of December.
I'm taking stock of which tools and rulers I use most often and I have to say that my curve square and L ruler are in biggest demand when I'm drafting my patterns. If I had that flexicurve ruler though I think that may change depending on how well it keeps its shape. For now I'm just stuck using my trusty old tape measure. I'm going to get that curve square replaced though as the one I have has a few serious cracks in it. If you don't know the tool I'm talking about here it is:
I consider this delicate thing indespensible and the only place I can find it online is at this UK store, here's the link:
http://www.sewessential.co.uk/Category.asp?CategoryID=776&NumPerPage=5&Page=1
You'll find it at the bottom of the page and it's not called a "Sew Easy Curve Square".
The other thing I wish I had was that thing called an awl, a little hole poking device for marking dart points and 'walking' sleeve blocks into armholes. Instead I use a soap smoothed point on a safety pin to facilitate dart transfer like this (I usually have two fingers supporting the raised paper underneath while I'm making the hole):
I manage to 'walk' my sleeves by taking what ever bodice/torso block and 'walking' the sleeve onto it tiny pinch by tiny pinch. This can be a distance of about a 1 cm to 1 inch depending on the curve area. I'm making due alright.
Was doing a little 'window' shopping online for what I've got in store when I want to make patterns for my own collections. As I'm not going to use non-eco fabrics for my designs (or their development) it leaves me with a number of pricier options. I'll probably get most of my fabric from Near Sea Naturals, they've got dyed and plain organic cotton wovens for around $10 and up and organic cotton knits starting from $12 and up. Not great, but not too bad either. If I want to get cruelty free wool, they've also got that (not at all an easy thing to come by trust me) it'll be quite a bit more costly with their most affordable options being their black and fawn solid color wool wovens for $55 per yard. Now if I want to get some satin, I'll have to go to GreenFibres and get their undyed cotton product for around $26 a yard (13 GBP that is).
Well I've got an idea of the price range at least. It'll be a while till I can get started to be sure, but it will happen. Just got to some patternmaking work and experience with clients.
By the way, when I 'shop' for fabric, I just go straight to my Eco Friendly Fashion Designer Resource Page. One of the reasons I made it, when I need materials to get started with my collections I'll have everything there in one place and in a great way that everyone else can use it too with it's selection of eco fabric sources, dying informatios, eco-friendly fabric paint, notions and more. Here's the link if you're also interested:
The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page
I'm taking stock of which tools and rulers I use most often and I have to say that my curve square and L ruler are in biggest demand when I'm drafting my patterns. If I had that flexicurve ruler though I think that may change depending on how well it keeps its shape. For now I'm just stuck using my trusty old tape measure. I'm going to get that curve square replaced though as the one I have has a few serious cracks in it. If you don't know the tool I'm talking about here it is:
I consider this delicate thing indespensible and the only place I can find it online is at this UK store, here's the link:
http://www.sewessential.co.uk/Category.asp?CategoryID=776&NumPerPage=5&Page=1
You'll find it at the bottom of the page and it's not called a "Sew Easy Curve Square".
The other thing I wish I had was that thing called an awl, a little hole poking device for marking dart points and 'walking' sleeve blocks into armholes. Instead I use a soap smoothed point on a safety pin to facilitate dart transfer like this (I usually have two fingers supporting the raised paper underneath while I'm making the hole):
I manage to 'walk' my sleeves by taking what ever bodice/torso block and 'walking' the sleeve onto it tiny pinch by tiny pinch. This can be a distance of about a 1 cm to 1 inch depending on the curve area. I'm making due alright.
Was doing a little 'window' shopping online for what I've got in store when I want to make patterns for my own collections. As I'm not going to use non-eco fabrics for my designs (or their development) it leaves me with a number of pricier options. I'll probably get most of my fabric from Near Sea Naturals, they've got dyed and plain organic cotton wovens for around $10 and up and organic cotton knits starting from $12 and up. Not great, but not too bad either. If I want to get cruelty free wool, they've also got that (not at all an easy thing to come by trust me) it'll be quite a bit more costly with their most affordable options being their black and fawn solid color wool wovens for $55 per yard. Now if I want to get some satin, I'll have to go to GreenFibres and get their undyed cotton product for around $26 a yard (13 GBP that is).
Well I've got an idea of the price range at least. It'll be a while till I can get started to be sure, but it will happen. Just got to some patternmaking work and experience with clients.
By the way, when I 'shop' for fabric, I just go straight to my Eco Friendly Fashion Designer Resource Page. One of the reasons I made it, when I need materials to get started with my collections I'll have everything there in one place and in a great way that everyone else can use it too with it's selection of eco fabric sources, dying informatios, eco-friendly fabric paint, notions and more. Here's the link if you're also interested:
The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page
If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and ResourcesTuesday, December 10, 2013
Using Delays As A Time For Planning Ahead
Okay, it's time to work on the knit wear pattern blocks. Actually, I'd skipped those chapters during my studies on account of just not being able to do them before. (The whole selection is strictly drafted using a dressform.) I'd actually forgotte about these, that's okay though, I'll read through them over the next few days and get this area of patternmaking tackled too. Can't wait to discover what's different about drafting for knit designs.
When I have the time I like to read, but when I don't have time, reading can be a painful chore even if it's to learn about something I'm really interested in like these instructions for drafting knit wear patterns. I've always loved learning how to do things. The way I take on the task though, is simply to read the material aloud, preferably into a recorder, but if I don't have one, without works okay too. The recorder just helps me remember better even if I don't actually listen to the recording after.
Now the other day I was talking about organic and eco-friendly fabric resources I would use when I start drafting my own patterns. I forgot something though, a buddy of mine and myself had been working on a quilt and fabric project site a while ago (the site has to undergo some repairs before we start working on it again mind you) but he'd introduced me to a great online fabric store a while back, called Fabric.com and I thought I'd go see what their new organic and eco friendly fabric section had to offer. (I thought I might have seen some better prices but I'm wasn't sure) Turns out if I order my fabric from them I can get atleast a dollar or more off per yard of material than I can any where else online. So their eco friendly inventory is every bit a part of their hallmark trait of great fabric deals, real nice.
Now I just have to be sure to add Fabric.com to my squidoo pages sometime so my readers there can use that great resource as well. For anyone who might be curious about our above mentioned quilt and fabric project website though here's the link (mind you it's meant for home sewers and crafters) and we've got our affiliate links to Fabric.com there as well:
http://www.buyfabriconlinehq.com/
As for my patternmaking endeavors, turns out I won't be able to buy my poster boards to transfer my master blocks until the end of this month, no problem though, I am going to make the best use of my time and start typing up my ads I'm going to put up at the Fashion Industry Network, my blog here and the Sewing Mamas forum. I just wish I could put up an ad on The Fashion Spot too, for newbies or something, that would be cool. I'm planning to offer a discount patternmaking service as a novice patternmaker. I'm so excited about it, I'm shooting for the end of December/beginning of January to launch my ads. I just have to get my master blocks/basic slopers completed and ready to work with for when I get my client's projects. I'll try like heck not to let anything get in the way. I better get done too because my brother is talking about moving out in a while so I've got financial needs to prepare for as well.
If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources
If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:
The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page
When I have the time I like to read, but when I don't have time, reading can be a painful chore even if it's to learn about something I'm really interested in like these instructions for drafting knit wear patterns. I've always loved learning how to do things. The way I take on the task though, is simply to read the material aloud, preferably into a recorder, but if I don't have one, without works okay too. The recorder just helps me remember better even if I don't actually listen to the recording after.
Now the other day I was talking about organic and eco-friendly fabric resources I would use when I start drafting my own patterns. I forgot something though, a buddy of mine and myself had been working on a quilt and fabric project site a while ago (the site has to undergo some repairs before we start working on it again mind you) but he'd introduced me to a great online fabric store a while back, called Fabric.com and I thought I'd go see what their new organic and eco friendly fabric section had to offer. (I thought I might have seen some better prices but I'm wasn't sure) Turns out if I order my fabric from them I can get atleast a dollar or more off per yard of material than I can any where else online. So their eco friendly inventory is every bit a part of their hallmark trait of great fabric deals, real nice.
Now I just have to be sure to add Fabric.com to my squidoo pages sometime so my readers there can use that great resource as well. For anyone who might be curious about our above mentioned quilt and fabric project website though here's the link (mind you it's meant for home sewers and crafters) and we've got our affiliate links to Fabric.com there as well:
http://www.buyfabriconlinehq.com/
As for my patternmaking endeavors, turns out I won't be able to buy my poster boards to transfer my master blocks until the end of this month, no problem though, I am going to make the best use of my time and start typing up my ads I'm going to put up at the Fashion Industry Network, my blog here and the Sewing Mamas forum. I just wish I could put up an ad on The Fashion Spot too, for newbies or something, that would be cool. I'm planning to offer a discount patternmaking service as a novice patternmaker. I'm so excited about it, I'm shooting for the end of December/beginning of January to launch my ads. I just have to get my master blocks/basic slopers completed and ready to work with for when I get my client's projects. I'll try like heck not to let anything get in the way. I better get done too because my brother is talking about moving out in a while so I've got financial needs to prepare for as well.
If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources
If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:
The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page
Monday, December 2, 2013
Planning A Patternmaking Portfolio
It's Sunday so it might be the wrong day to fear / antisipate business going slow (I know I'm being impatient) but there's a great way to plan ahead on what to do with any spare free time I may have. Update my fashion squidoo pages (when they fix up the bugs on my lens), review my fashion industry books, but perhaps, more importantly I should work on putting together some content for my own online patternmaking portfolio.
I don't have any eco - friendly fabric, but I do have a stock of fabric from years ago and some other materials I purchased from thrift stores. So I should try to decide on what kind of designs to create that would demonstrate some serious patternmaking abilities. Then I'll have to figure out how to take some decent photos (with my cell phone? hahaha, I'll probably have a great new camera by then hopefully) to put on my portfolio pages.
The thing is here is that my sewing skills aren't that great, or atleast not as refined as I'd like them to be, so I'll have to get past that to provide some visual 'credentials' for my patternmaking skills. That shouldn't be too much trouble though, usually when I sew I'm in a rush, things rarely turn out perfect like that. I'll just take my time so I can get it right.
I want to make some complex garments and some simple garments. I think one garment should be a sort of empire waist baby doll slip with a keyhole detail at the centre front and slightly flared hemline. The next design should be a princess seam dress with puff cap sleeves and cut out detailing in the sleeve and side panel areas. I'm thinking this would need some kind of backing material or interfacing to stabilize and support the cut out areas neatly though. I should also do a pair of pants with frontier pockets and an asymetrical jacket. For the simpler designs I think I'll do a totally girly scalloped hem tulip skirt with fullness at the waisline and hips tapered to slim fit skirt width at the below the knee hemline. I'd also like to do an interesting color block fitted vest.
Yeah, I'll work on these whenever I don't have clients or much work and post these projects on the sewing mamas forum too. I'll plan ahead to take my time and make sure they turn out perfectly too. Right now then, I have to re-do my little figure templates and do my fashion illustrations for these designs first. When I can, I'll post the figure templates on my Squidoo lens too.
I don't have any eco - friendly fabric, but I do have a stock of fabric from years ago and some other materials I purchased from thrift stores. So I should try to decide on what kind of designs to create that would demonstrate some serious patternmaking abilities. Then I'll have to figure out how to take some decent photos (with my cell phone? hahaha, I'll probably have a great new camera by then hopefully) to put on my portfolio pages.
The thing is here is that my sewing skills aren't that great, or atleast not as refined as I'd like them to be, so I'll have to get past that to provide some visual 'credentials' for my patternmaking skills. That shouldn't be too much trouble though, usually when I sew I'm in a rush, things rarely turn out perfect like that. I'll just take my time so I can get it right.
I want to make some complex garments and some simple garments. I think one garment should be a sort of empire waist baby doll slip with a keyhole detail at the centre front and slightly flared hemline. The next design should be a princess seam dress with puff cap sleeves and cut out detailing in the sleeve and side panel areas. I'm thinking this would need some kind of backing material or interfacing to stabilize and support the cut out areas neatly though. I should also do a pair of pants with frontier pockets and an asymetrical jacket. For the simpler designs I think I'll do a totally girly scalloped hem tulip skirt with fullness at the waisline and hips tapered to slim fit skirt width at the below the knee hemline. I'd also like to do an interesting color block fitted vest.
Yeah, I'll work on these whenever I don't have clients or much work and post these projects on the sewing mamas forum too. I'll plan ahead to take my time and make sure they turn out perfectly too. Right now then, I have to re-do my little figure templates and do my fashion illustrations for these designs first. When I can, I'll post the figure templates on my Squidoo lens too.
Tuesday, November 19, 2013
I dedicate everything to my mom
My parents had a sudden divorce several years ago after being together around 31 years, in the end it didn't work out and my mom left to live out on the prairies again. I was always very close to my mom but this situation seemingly evaporated our active closeness to the point where months would go by, even a year and she never called. I had to find her number through a bit of investigation. The guy she was living with couldn't even keep the phone lines open.
She never even got the chance to see her little grand daughter, my daughter Salma and her grandson all grown up into a big almost 5 year old boy. Before she let me know that she was leaving my father, I had a dream that I had lost her, she was beside me one minute and was gone the next after telling me she'd meet up with me outside the building to go home. When I looked for her she wasn't there...in the dream I had the unmistakable feeling that I'd just completely lost her.
And here I was, this morning, looking over the work I'd started, after this terrible phone call. I wouldn't have been into this work, atleast it wouldn't have been as ingrained in me if it hadn't been for my mom. She'd take me to the fabric and pattern department in Woodwards department store downtown back in the 80s and we'd be there for hours looking through pattern books and searching for just the right fabric.
She would get a pattern, cut it out, lay it out on the living room floor and I'd watch her put everything together into a beautiful garment. I was always facinated by this and wanted to learn the secrets of why the pattern pieces where shaped the way they were. She'd sew them on her shiny black and gold enameled Singer sewing machine. As she turned the wheel, it would sound like a tiny train. She put me on the path I'm on today.
She always talked about making the world a better place, helping both people and animals in whatever way was needed and protecting the environment out of the sincere love for everything that God created. She talked about these things as long as I can remember. I loved that about my mom. I loved that about my mom. I always wanted to be like her, but go a step up and be able to make her dreams a reality. To make an impact, a growing one, throughout my life so that I leave the world as a better place than when I came into it. So the world's children and other innocent creatures will be able to face a safer, brighter future than the one I thought I was facing.
Everything I do in my life, every success and difference that I am able to make, I dedicate to my mom. The beautiful spirit that nourished and cared for the best in me. I'm setting out to fulfill your dreams mom and try to raise my children to be the way you wanted me to be. I love you with all my heart. And I'm sorry for the misunderstanding between us that happened after you left.
Friday, November 8, 2013
Patternmaking And Pattern Alteration On My Design
I sewed the scalloped neckline facing onto the bodice yesterday. To all us sewing moms out there, who haven't done this sort of thing yet, don't do it with a wiggly baby in your lap, it's not going to turn out the way you want it. Big No No. However, here are a few "to do" notes, sew sharp curves very slowly, think of machine stitching as taking one stitch at a time, one stitch at a time, stop and go, stop and go.
The result will be a smoother stitching line, greater symmetry. I also lightly marked my stitching line this time to 'see' better what I was doing (See Below). I also loosened up the pressure foot tension on my Singer sewing machine, just wish it could have been lightened up even more, as the fabric still wasn't as free to move as I would have liked (my make of machine only goes so far though).
I was thinking though, this type of sewing is why it would be great to actually have a manual sewing machine still.
Once I did the fitting, I realized it had too much ease, here a few pictures to show it...
 |
| eeek! too much ease in the pattern |
3/8" from the side seams and 1/8" from each dart which is actually a total of 1" and 3/4" ease take up. I'll have to take the changes to the midriff band as well.
Here are the results after I made the necessary pattern alterations...
 |
| pattern alterations made, much better fit |
If I had the money, I would have made a muslin out of some organic cotton or something, like I was supposed to, totally you know? But, I didn't, and I would also buy some additional fabric to make a new version because this light weight yellow damask fabric is so delicate.
I need proper pressing equipment too!
I was looking at a Calvin Klein collection afterwards though from back in 1991, that was a good year, miss those days, Check it out here from Fashion Channel on YouTube:
...and it had me thinking. I may choose a simpler, clean, fitted cut for my next portfolio garment design. After all is said and done, if a 'promotional' project is to ambitious before it has the proper backing (in either knowledge, skill or finances) it can do more damage in a way, then the good. it will do. But only in a way.
I've learned a lot though, still on, and it felt good to finally produce something from a pattern I drafted on the computer. In the end, it wasn't actually my computer drafting that was even the problem. Everything was fine there, I just didn't know how to draft that kind of pattern correctly (cropped midriff lingerie style garment) and which finishing elements would work best for that kind of design. That's why I'm going to be buying that lingerie book though, "Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear" by Ann Haggar. I can't wait.
I really should have used a fine hand rolled hem along that scalloped edge, I was just hoping to get a crisp clean edge with the faced hem, next time I'll clip the hem allowance and roll it in place along a pre-sewn guideline. That should work much better. However, I think I'd still like to use the facing approach with the neckline because I really like how it "stands" on the neckline, see below... I just love that.
So today, I'm going to hopefully continue work on the skirt portion of this outfit, that is if I'm able to get a little time. I've got to take my kids out again to the park, can't miss that, especially not on a day like this.
If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:
If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:
Friday, March 5, 2010
I'm Back From The Dead Ya'll
Oh, the problems that hit you when you're trying to make it in life. My computer broke down, did I tell you that? (I have to use my brother's now, a total bummer) Then I've been unable to log into my blogs here, not been getting too much money made and been up to my ears in anemia and too much house work and errands and not enough sleep. Well, I'm taking a breather right now, sort of.
Here's a little change in plans, thanks to a friend of mine, I'm going to be working on writing and working on a cool fashion related web site, unlike anything else on the web right now. You guys (all my fellow fashion enthusiasts out there) are going to love it. I'm not giving away any secrets yet though, you'll have to wait at least a month or so I'm thinking but, I'm working on it. Anyway, I've got to go for now.
Have a good one
Here's a little change in plans, thanks to a friend of mine, I'm going to be working on writing and working on a cool fashion related web site, unlike anything else on the web right now. You guys (all my fellow fashion enthusiasts out there) are going to love it. I'm not giving away any secrets yet though, you'll have to wait at least a month or so I'm thinking but, I'm working on it. Anyway, I've got to go for now.
Have a good one
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
Finally Working On My Collection Again
Whoa, I'm finally working on my collection here again. Got 3 color ways I'm playing around with, I just love them. Can't wait to get started on the samples, but I've got to focus on finishing the presentation for this collection first and putting food on the table. My boss hasn't gotten around to giving me more written assignments, let's just say I'm scared. More bills too, well my philosophy is this, when you have to wait, don't wait, do something else that needs to get done, no matter how scared you are, be productive while you're waiting, work on something you've been working on and be careful not to start anything new. This painful delay gives me a chance to work on my collection so I should be grateful, just grateful with an ulcer starting but never the less grateful.
Also I've got to concentrate on what I need to do to get the collection illustration ready into a complete presentation/portfolio, 1. color everything in the different color ways 2. do some from behind 3. create the front and back 'flat' views (this is to show the basic pattern shapes, shows you know what you're doing, helps out the pattern makers) 4. arrange everything on your final 'support' whether it be digital or not 5. decorate the support to complete the 'look' or 'mood' After that you're done and ready to show the world your work or get busy putting together your samples or rather both at the same time.
Also I've got to concentrate on what I need to do to get the collection illustration ready into a complete presentation/portfolio, 1. color everything in the different color ways 2. do some from behind 3. create the front and back 'flat' views (this is to show the basic pattern shapes, shows you know what you're doing, helps out the pattern makers) 4. arrange everything on your final 'support' whether it be digital or not 5. decorate the support to complete the 'look' or 'mood' After that you're done and ready to show the world your work or get busy putting together your samples or rather both at the same time.
Monday, February 15, 2010
A Few More Set Backs But Keep On Kicking
Hey now, my computer just broke down a few days ago and business is going to be seriously slowed down for a while. I've got to redo all the the Photoshop line touch-up stuff on my collection pieces and I've got my bills to pay. Well this is a littel goods news/bad news kind of thing. The credit place gave me another chance with the situation I keep telling them (my brother skipped out on me and racked up his cell phone bill with premium calls, I've got a 900 dollar mistake on my hands) and I'm not working a regular job, yes it's no exageration it's extremely hard to keep the food on the table (I wasn't able to afford toillete paper and toothpaste okay, it's no joke) Any way though, my boss has apparently got more writting work coming my way, I hope I've got a bit of a raise coming, cross my fingers, so I'll be able to swing with, God willing. Lord knows I'm willing to work for it. One of my brothers is here helping me pay the bills so together we should be able to pull through.
Also, the folks at Lutterloh pattern making system got back to me and said that yes I can put together different patterns to come up with my own patterns! So yeah, I'm going to get that package as soon as I can and then, then, I'll be able to create my own samples! I'm so excited by the thought of this, all I have to do is get through this financial crunch and I'll get another chance.
Also, I haven't been able to get any volunteer models in so that I can do my makeup artist course, well, I had another idea I'm going to advertise it like this:
Free Elf Cosmetic High Quality Product try out/Marylin Makeover
Somebody should be interested in that, I'll see how it flies...
Any way I got to get to work here, keep you posted
Also, the folks at Lutterloh pattern making system got back to me and said that yes I can put together different patterns to come up with my own patterns! So yeah, I'm going to get that package as soon as I can and then, then, I'll be able to create my own samples! I'm so excited by the thought of this, all I have to do is get through this financial crunch and I'll get another chance.
Also, I haven't been able to get any volunteer models in so that I can do my makeup artist course, well, I had another idea I'm going to advertise it like this:
Free Elf Cosmetic High Quality Product try out/Marylin Makeover
Somebody should be interested in that, I'll see how it flies...
Any way I got to get to work here, keep you posted
Monday, February 8, 2010
Collection in Progress
Well, last night I managed to get quite a lot of work done, not only did I get my mood board done finally but I prepped all my designs for coloring on the computer. This involved opening up all the files in Adobe Photoshop 7 and...
1. Converting them to grey scale, this allows you to more efficiently 'clean up' your image later on. Basically what your doing is extracting your line work and throwing the rest away.
2. Go to brightness and contrast and increase both values to 50 and hit okay.
3. Take the magic wand and make sure it's value is at 50
4. You need to get rid of the grey background of your work so you can complete your images, with the magic wand choose a grey area that's a bit lighter than the middle tone of entire background quality and click.
5. The selection is not always perfect but you can do a light clean up after ward with a 'soft' eraser, it's better than getting rid of some of your line work, you don't want to waste time doing that.
6. Get your image back to RGB (or CMYK if you're planning to print them out after, wise choice although not my favorite because blues and greens in cmyk are a lot duller in hue and tend to be more of a challenge to use)
7. When you're ready to color them up create a layer on your image and make sure it's in 'Overlay' mode so you don't have to re-do line work as it will just show through your colors. You're done for now!
I'll keep you posted on my progress hope the info helps you all out :)
1. Converting them to grey scale, this allows you to more efficiently 'clean up' your image later on. Basically what your doing is extracting your line work and throwing the rest away.
2. Go to brightness and contrast and increase both values to 50 and hit okay.
3. Take the magic wand and make sure it's value is at 50
4. You need to get rid of the grey background of your work so you can complete your images, with the magic wand choose a grey area that's a bit lighter than the middle tone of entire background quality and click.
5. The selection is not always perfect but you can do a light clean up after ward with a 'soft' eraser, it's better than getting rid of some of your line work, you don't want to waste time doing that.
6. Get your image back to RGB (or CMYK if you're planning to print them out after, wise choice although not my favorite because blues and greens in cmyk are a lot duller in hue and tend to be more of a challenge to use)
7. When you're ready to color them up create a layer on your image and make sure it's in 'Overlay' mode so you don't have to re-do line work as it will just show through your colors. You're done for now!
I'll keep you posted on my progress hope the info helps you all out :)
Sunday, February 7, 2010
My First Digital Mood Board
Hi everybody, here is my first ever mood board period. I usually just keep the ideas all in my head, but professionally you can't do that any way so I've got to change my practices. Be sure to let me know what you think. Thanks
Saturday, February 6, 2010
Ahh Life, Another day Another delay
It's alright, I've been dealing with this for years, any way a little secret I've learnt that if you perpetually think about what you're going to do to achieve your goal before you actually go through with it, it'll go smoother and faster than if you just sat down and did. Well that only goes so far. Had to catch up with some funds, my home job employer has given me some lower pay pieces of work to do so it's consumed my time and I've been feeling really worn out with my little daughter having a growing spurt while she's on the breast full time, ahhhh! Bare with me.
I've recently found out about a pattern making system (lutterloh)I want to get my hands on, for $125 I can get it and I've got my mind set on it after I email them and ask can I use the system to create my own patterns from it, give or take a few changes/modifications, and the creative such, design lines will always be a custom job, that's what it's all about, but you want your basic pattern to be somewhat conventional unless you're izzy miyaki or balenciaga, I don't even like their stuff although it is a break and a sometimes eye opening lead into creative thinking.
I prefer Alexander McQueen and John Galliano myself, LLOOVVEE THEM!
Well as for my mood board for my collection, I've managed to get all the pictures off the internet for it, and now all I have to do is put it all together in adobe and decide on some color way variations, (I apologize if I said this already in an earlier post) Also for my collection designs themselves, I've got to start working on those, first repairing the line work, you do that by first putting the photos to grey scale in adobe, then enhancing the lines. Then you convert the images back to rgb and you're set to go with your color work.
When I got my mood board finished I'll post it here.
Bye for now everybody, got to make the weekend mean something for my husband :)
I've recently found out about a pattern making system (lutterloh)I want to get my hands on, for $125 I can get it and I've got my mind set on it after I email them and ask can I use the system to create my own patterns from it, give or take a few changes/modifications, and the creative such, design lines will always be a custom job, that's what it's all about, but you want your basic pattern to be somewhat conventional unless you're izzy miyaki or balenciaga, I don't even like their stuff although it is a break and a sometimes eye opening lead into creative thinking.
I prefer Alexander McQueen and John Galliano myself, LLOOVVEE THEM!
Well as for my mood board for my collection, I've managed to get all the pictures off the internet for it, and now all I have to do is put it all together in adobe and decide on some color way variations, (I apologize if I said this already in an earlier post) Also for my collection designs themselves, I've got to start working on those, first repairing the line work, you do that by first putting the photos to grey scale in adobe, then enhancing the lines. Then you convert the images back to rgb and you're set to go with your color work.
When I got my mood board finished I'll post it here.
Bye for now everybody, got to make the weekend mean something for my husband :)
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Mood Board Delay
Well now, yesterday I wanted to put together a digital mood board with three color ways and everything that led to my new collection. However my brothers popped on by for a surprise visit. And my day went to hell, then I got busy with my virtual assistant job, then my house work then more VA...you get the picture. Hopefully, today will be different, only thing is, today I'm worried about one of my cats again, one took of two weeks ago and never came back, now another one has taken off last night and hasn't returned yet. I'm going to get ulcers I assure all of you. this kitty is fat too although she's obsessed with running around outside and I'm afraid she might be so fat and slow that she got hit by a car. Then again maybe she's just hiding from the rain. I really hope so. If I'm losing my cats out here though I'm going to start getting suspicious of my neighbors. Mood board, mood board, I have to think about my mood board. You know those are supposed to be put together before your collection, I know that. It's just that it was so well ingrained in my mind that I never needed to put it together for my own use and inspiration, I'm just now putting it together for the sake of my portfolio. :) I'm not showing off, I'm just talented.
Sunday, January 31, 2010
Back to the Grid But With Plans
Always have your plans, gotta make some money today though, get back to my fashion collection when I've got a gap of time available. trying to develop some plans with a friend from US of Africa and take care of my kids and my sick cats. One of the kittens have swollen front paws and diarrhea and I don't even have grocery money let alone vet fees to spend on him. I'm trying some ground black seed though, it's apparently a powerful anti-microbial and immune support. And mustard seed powder, you may not know this but it contains the now coveted selenium, anti-cancer agent as well as other things. I'll start a new blog for my cats and herbal log there.
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Yeahh! Got My Sketch Work Done For My Collection!
Okay, now we're talking, I've got all the sketch work done for my new collection, I've taken pictures of all of them, I have to load them up to my computer now from my camera so I can do the color work on them and other stuff, flats and so on.
The other day I went on apparel search.com and tried to find out where my collection would be well received, Europe is almost a sure shot. Well I was talking to my husband about it when he called and he was asking me afterwards "how do you know you can have a job like that? wonder if you can't keep having those wonderful ideas?" His seeming lack of faith in my imagination and ability really kicked me but I told him something really valuable I've learned over the years thanks to reading Julian Seamans books, there are no original ideas, and no such thing as artists block. When you need ideas for a new collection, you don't necessarily look for inspiration to come from your own head, ideas, concepts, nothing. What you need to do is be yourself, cultivate a love and appreciation for everything visual, art, architecture, history, all cultures, museums, landscape, past fashion, so called futuristic fashion, movies and so on, even cultivate the ability to appreciate the visual elements of things you don't like or rather be able to spot whatever there is about them that is worth something of note.
You love everything, so what next? Okay, what you've got to do now and this is where being yourself comes in, anything that speaks to you, think about it, look for what ever things you've seen you'd like to combine in different ways to produce some interesting, functional, wearable and beautiful ideas for garments, that's simply what I do. It's true you don't do this very well if you don't culture a love for visual elements everywhere from pretty much everything, but that is something you can learn. Don't forget to learn about different design elements, garment cuts for example so that you've got a variety of them as well that can be combined with your visual chemistry's.
While your putting things together like that you've also got to keep current fashion trends in mind, see if some of them can be thrown tastfully into you collection's design and also be aware of color trends to for what ever forward season you're designing for that way you're collection will be up to date. Have fun!
The other day I went on apparel search.com and tried to find out where my collection would be well received, Europe is almost a sure shot. Well I was talking to my husband about it when he called and he was asking me afterwards "how do you know you can have a job like that? wonder if you can't keep having those wonderful ideas?" His seeming lack of faith in my imagination and ability really kicked me but I told him something really valuable I've learned over the years thanks to reading Julian Seamans books, there are no original ideas, and no such thing as artists block. When you need ideas for a new collection, you don't necessarily look for inspiration to come from your own head, ideas, concepts, nothing. What you need to do is be yourself, cultivate a love and appreciation for everything visual, art, architecture, history, all cultures, museums, landscape, past fashion, so called futuristic fashion, movies and so on, even cultivate the ability to appreciate the visual elements of things you don't like or rather be able to spot whatever there is about them that is worth something of note.
You love everything, so what next? Okay, what you've got to do now and this is where being yourself comes in, anything that speaks to you, think about it, look for what ever things you've seen you'd like to combine in different ways to produce some interesting, functional, wearable and beautiful ideas for garments, that's simply what I do. It's true you don't do this very well if you don't culture a love for visual elements everywhere from pretty much everything, but that is something you can learn. Don't forget to learn about different design elements, garment cuts for example so that you've got a variety of them as well that can be combined with your visual chemistry's.
While your putting things together like that you've also got to keep current fashion trends in mind, see if some of them can be thrown tastfully into you collection's design and also be aware of color trends to for what ever forward season you're designing for that way you're collection will be up to date. Have fun!
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Every Step Brings You Closer
I watched 'Signe Chanel' again on youtube, I love french documentaries especially about fashion, got to find some more. I've got a little more than half my sketches left to do on my collection before I can get them on my computer for finishing. When I'm done I want to do three things
1. put together my fashion design/art resume
2. post my new collection on all the free portfolio/fashion portfolio sites
3. send my links over to all the Turkish and Kuwait and whatever other clothing manufacturing companies that I think may be interested in my work.
Sounds like a plan, I want to see if someone will hire me to design even without me knowing patternmaking. Also I've got to remember that I should draw up the flat images of the garments to accompany the illustrations. Those are for the patternmakers there to understand the garment better so they can make a pattern that will re-create the depiction of the illustration. See? My mind is thoroughly on my dreams.
Any way though, I've got to get back to my writing work, just had to drop in and let everyone know that I am still in the fashion design hopeful sling. I'm just stuck like the pig in the mud of life. Wait Till The Summer! Oh God, I plan to be done with my new collection way before that, and I think I'll make it the trend cast colors for this coming fall and winter navy blue and brown. Well that's a wrap, back to the grind folks.
1. put together my fashion design/art resume
2. post my new collection on all the free portfolio/fashion portfolio sites
3. send my links over to all the Turkish and Kuwait and whatever other clothing manufacturing companies that I think may be interested in my work.
Sounds like a plan, I want to see if someone will hire me to design even without me knowing patternmaking. Also I've got to remember that I should draw up the flat images of the garments to accompany the illustrations. Those are for the patternmakers there to understand the garment better so they can make a pattern that will re-create the depiction of the illustration. See? My mind is thoroughly on my dreams.
Any way though, I've got to get back to my writing work, just had to drop in and let everyone know that I am still in the fashion design hopeful sling. I'm just stuck like the pig in the mud of life. Wait Till The Summer! Oh God, I plan to be done with my new collection way before that, and I think I'll make it the trend cast colors for this coming fall and winter navy blue and brown. Well that's a wrap, back to the grind folks.
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