A Nasty Hickup In My Path Of Becoming A Fashion Designer

Okay, first word to anybody trying to become a fashion designer without going to school to do so. My dears, my poor poor dears please listen to me very carefully, this is not Chanel's era, we all need to do things differently now, you must learn everything you need to know as a fashion designer before you attempt to wing it on partial knowledge, okay? This is what just happened to me, I contacted a clothing company and they were interested in my designs and wanted to acquire the specs for my garment designs, I don't yet have pattern making skill though and had actually forgotten about the technical aspects of fashion illustrations (the flat 'technical' line drawings used by the pattern makers) and so, there is no practical way to for the company to do business with me in the way that this business is run now. And that's okay, because although I've been dis-illusioned and dis-appointed I was aiming to learn all I had to know as a fashion designer any way. So I haven't of course been knocked off my path. I haven't and you shouldn't be either. Just keep going and focus on the next step in front of you and not how long the journey is.

Anyway though, I've joined the fashion industry network and I've been making a few friends along the way. There are also some products that I know are going to help me out in my path and here's a list of which wonderful things they are: The Lutterloh Pattern Making System, Islander Sewing's Industrial sewing training DVDs and 'Il Figurino Di Moda' Fashion Design Techniques Book and the Portfolio Presentation for Fashion Design book (I've just ordered this last one) So I'm digging in my heals like usual and continuing to find my way.

I wish you all a wonderful day,

Ayisha (Emma)

New Resources To Help You With Your Online Fashion Degrees

Over the past few days I've come across 3 great new information resources for those of us Fashionistas that are looking to become fashion designers on a DIY basis or through traditional college or by getting a few online fashion degrees. (I'll provide the links to each of these sites after I tell you a bit about them)

First, I came across a wonderful explanation behind the precarious copyright laws regarding the protection of Fashion Designs, it's good for any fashion designer to familiarize yourself with these laws, your designs are not protected for your own good, if they were, your work could prove to be your legal undoing, a liability.

However pretty much direct copying is still a frowned upon disgrace, some designers have won battles with each other over this. Thank God, but it's a good thing too because we should all strive to be more creative.

For the greatest amount of protection of your work, document your fashion design process. You can do this by keeping your sketch book of the evolution and inspiration of your ideas, keep the mood board. Collect all your material created during the fashion design process, put it in an envelope and mail it to yourself, and never open it. That's one way, it's all about the creation date, another way I should think, is to post your work online, on a blog, on an online portfolio, person website, the internet is an archive of dated material.

I've done this with my own work already so I guess I've successfully protected myself in a way. Now all I have to do is get my work on the store shelves, well that's another story.

Second site I've stumbled upon was Top Fashion Designers, this webpage is a listing of all the top name fashion designers, not only can you check out their latest collections but you can also get a brief over view of each designers biography. I've enjoyed reading quite a few of them already, they're highlighted facts about their background, how they got started, just a very interesting information resource.

If you're attending an online fashion design school or you have to do a paper on a famous fashion designer, this is the place to go to find out which one you want to write about. As for all of us non-student, DIY people, read up on these designers, you never know where you're going to get your heads up about the next move you should make and that's besides the great collections they've got up.

Third site I found called Couture Candy, would be great in helping your creative wheels turn in the fashion design process. It's a special store that sells very high end, designer label, avant garde street wear, I love the site it's got some great garments to look at, I could get lost browsing this fashion store/gallery for hours looking for the next idea to work with. Not steal mind you, but mutate, add too, and other wise use as a jumping board for my own semi-original garment collection.

So far as the buying is concerned, the prices are high of course, but they aren't too bad at all if you've got the money.


Watch Johanna Blakley talk about Copyright Law in fashion:
Copyright Law In the Fashion Industry

The one stop site for quick biography highlights of all the best designers:
Top Fashion Designers

And here's that great fashion store I found:
Couture Candy

You can find more info and resources at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

Slow Progress, But That's How Things Are

Okay, so I've gotten into fashion pattern making now, I'm still doing freelance writing on the side because I'm not getting paid yet for my drafting gigs. If you teach yourself and you've got no experience and credentials, that's reality, you've got to do work for free to prove yourself. If you're dedicated it's not a real problem, but you still need to make money to live, especially important if you've got 2 kids and 4 cats, they don't stop needing stuff, so I'm choked. But, ONWARD! You know what Benjamin Franklin said? "Up with ye sluggard, there's time enough for rest when you're dead." I just love that, don't you? Goes hand in hand with my "Just do it!" motto I live by.

Wish I could keep up with my blog like I want too, nothing much has happened so far really, well, that's not quite true, I've managed to:

- land a few non-paying clients (everybody likes free labor don't they?" one in Illinois, a girl in Florida and another one right here in Vancouver, all by using the fashion industry network and craigslist, hmm, didn't think to use kijiji though, I'll do that too

- come across this awesome site for designers to upload their fashions, get exposure and even get their garment made and sold (and earn a profit from it, too cool huh? the site url is: http://www.garmz.com/ great team, great quality site, you got to love them and check it out

and I've come to realize that I better get Connie Amaden Crawford's book "pattern making made easy" so I can further professionalize my work, the lutterloh pattern making system has some nice "blocks" you can work from, but they're pretty poor on marking and labeling so I need another resource as well, I'm thinking Connie's book should do it. Maybe I should have done that first, but I'm starting to shun procrastination big time and wanted to get started. Face your fears, let nothing stop you, when you jump out the plane you've got to hit the ground running!

Anyway, wish me luck, I want all of you to succeed in your dreams, let's make a happy, eco-friendly world!

Eco Friendly Fashion Designers Resources page

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

The Time Doctor, Setting Priorities And Patternmaking Practice

Okay, so there's only so much time you can squeeze out of a busy schedule. However, remember that you make time for the things that are important for you, we don't always like to face up to that. However, setting priorities and especially with something technical like patternmaking and making a commitment to laying one brick at a time, will allow you to reach your goals.

I'm already a quarter of the way through my patternmaking book and it's thanks to a great little program called TimeDoctor. It's free and what it does is help you stay focused on you're real priorities, not all your distractions. You'll be able to keep track of how you spend time on the computer and different tasks you list in you current schedule that way you have a little reminder and a way to get a bit self conscious about letting yourself swerve from the things you're supposed to do.

Well, I use it for sticking to my article work and when I've got milestones for article work completed that's when I'll use any bit of extra time to get busy with my patternmaking. Every little bit helps.

And a wonderful thing happened a few weeks ago, when I was working on developing the panels for the princess panels for the torso blocks, I discovered how to create the pattern for one of my own designs. This was a pivotal moment for me similar to how it felt when I first realized the secret to making successful cream puff dough. Or how to save your computer on your own from a virus. The knowledge of how to create something from scratch is very empowering and it definitely has increased my resolve to complete my study of Connie Amaden Crawford's "Patternmaking made easy".

Patternmaking Trouble With Jumpsuit Block And The Solution

Okay this morning I'm re-doing the traditional jumpsuit pattern blocks.   They didn't turn out right at all yesterday.   See that's the thing about practice,  if you mess up you've got to know you're going to try the same thing again tomorrow,  but that's tough right?   Here's how I handle it,  I'll look over the problem till I find out or atleast have a ligit theory as to why the 'thing' didn't turn out right.

So this morning my jumpsuit pattern blocks aren't going to match up at the side seams and I'm at the end of my roll and have yet another jumpsuit master pattern to do.    Before cutting anything out,  I checked the angles,  they are wrong.   So instead of cutting anything out (because when you've got a budget it's okay to erase pencil lines) I laid the back pant and torso blocks on the front jumpsuit section :)  aligning the side seams to see what would happen.   Hahaha,  solution found,   what I'm going to do then,  is cut out the front jumpsuit pattern block,  transfer all the hip and waistline markings and create the back jumpsuit block.

It's got me to thinking though,  I want to transfer all these paper master blocks to poster board.   I don't want to have a bunch of in-accurate blocks.   I think I did everything right,  but this just seam as easy as it sounded like in the book.   I assume that everything should have lined up without any adjustment.   (Or is that just the perfectionist in me voicing it's concerns?)  In any case I'm just going to go over these blocks,  one by one,  to see if I did everything exactly as it was supposed to be done.   Pattternmaking is the art of perfection applied to foundation of clothing construction,  it's got to be just so.   When I'm sure everything is as it should be,  I'll go ahead and create my good poster board copies.   I want to step forward into service providing with absolute confidence,  armed with perfect master blocks.

I can't wait to make those master blocks though,  these curly little paper patterns are driving me crazy.   I've tried to keep them flat with my chunky books,  but they're trying to keep that curl.   That reminds too,  I'm going to look up and see what pattern hooks look like and make myself some of those out of my heavy grade paper clips by using a nice little pair of pliers,  that's an affordable way to go till I can buy the right stuff (that is,  unless the paper clips work just fine).   Then I'm going to hang my poster board patterns on a nice wooden hanger in the closet to keep them safe and in perfect order.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:
The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Why Watch Current (and past) Fashion Videos

I've heard and read that the reason to watch fashion shows are to keep up with the latest trends,  and when it comes to collections of the past,  to gain insight and inspiration from what designers have done before.  And this is just one of the ways to get ideas for a new "original" collection of your own.  Other ways of course are to look at the different clothing styles from other cultures and periods,  looking at art and artifacts,  nature,  architecture even just checking out the new textiles, prints and fabric innovations can be a source of inspiration.

However these are designer's reasons to watch fashion videos,  Patternmakers have completely different reasons and approach to watching both new and old fashion videos. For example I was watching  Donna Karan's winter 2012/2013 collection a while ago and as a patternmaker I was inspired,  challenged and intrigued by the cut of the garments.  I found myself automatically wondering "how was that done?" and then challenging myself with the question of how and if I could do that myself for my own designs.  Take a look for yourself:

This was actually quite a wonderful experience for me and I look forward to it every time I watch a new fashion video now (or a retro one for that matter).

Designers come up with new design challenges and adventures all the time that work out to be a great way to keep a patternmaker's mind on it's tip toes.  It's actually made me head in the direction of looking into more speciallty patternmaking books as well,  right now I've got my eyes on Pattern Making Portfolio Skills and the Pattern Magic series.

If you'd like to see more great quality fashion videos subscribe to fatalfashion's channel on Youtube.com
just visit: http://www.youtube.com/user/FatalefashionII?feature=watch


If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:
The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Sewing Your Own Digital Pattern You Drafted, Printed And Cut Out

I cut my lemon tulip lingerie pattern out yesterday and looked it over,  going about the task of sewing it in my mind (yes I'm a little apprehensive,  I haven't sewn in a while,  about 2 years and don't know how well my machine is going to handle the work).   Aside from that though,  working with a pattern you've drafted yourself is an indispensable learning experience and this won't be the only time I do it.   I'm going to sew my own samples once I get started.

So what did I learn about patternmaking for this exercise so far?  Okay,  2 things at this time:  Take a look at the picture below of my pattern's sleeve pattern...

1.  Most of the cap on the finished sleeve to this to-be bias cut block is going to be gathered to hopefully create a bit of a "puff" to enhance the tulip shape.  So;  The area to be gathered should be marked from beginning to end,  and in this case with the top of the sleeve cap being notched on both sides of the sleeve overlap.  And oh oh,  I forgot the little arrows at the ends of my bias grainline.  And where are my annotations?   Ughhh,  well,  the patterns I did for my client have been getting a lot more professional since I did this one a while back,  so I won't get too mad at myself.

Next lesson:

Take a look at the original pattern this sleeve was drafted from.  Because the spread from the central underarm area isn't spread evenly (see the highest notch on either side nearest the center of the underarm),  with the difference in the degree of the spread between the front and back of the sleeve cap,  there will be an uneven ratio of fabric to gather.  One side is about 8" and need to be gathered to 4 1/8" and the other side is 5 inches and need to be gather to about 3".  Next time I'll know better.  So the rule is this,  make sure there's a uniform distance between each spread so your gathers will also be uniform.   I do think I read this before,  but now it's definitely crystallized...nothing like hands on you know.

Now,  I spent the morning preparing for my first portfolio piece.  I want to get everything right,  so I pulled out all my sewing books,  organized my sewing equipment,  dug up some old sewing machine needles,  cleaned my sewing machine,  pulled out my lovely fabric and ironed out all it's creases (see the photo below, I didn't buy this non-eco fabric, however,  it was given to me about 15 years ago and I never knew what to do with it till now) 

Photography tip here,  to take a beautiful shot of a piece of satin jacquard hang it off of something and put another light source on it to show off it's double textures and shine.

So,  now,  I'm going to take the little bit of fabric I took off the ends of this material and figure out which stitch length,  thread tension and thread size to use.   I'm thanking God that I won't have any top stitching to do because I don't have any yellow thread.  I'll have to use one of my white threads.  All the edging and hem work to do is going to be faced for a clean smooth edge.  I'm thinking about blind stitching the facing to the garment if necessary though.

Oh,  yeah,  I also have to cut out the pattern blocks.   I don't want to tailor tack the darts though as I don't want the fabric marred,  so I'm going to make a piece of graphite paper and trace the interior of the darts onto the fabric,  lightly though so it won't show up in the finished garment.

Also,  because I want everything to turn out perfect,  I'm making this an industrial sewing exercise,  I've got my books out and open to make sure:

-  all the seams are sewn in the right direction in orientation to fabric grain and garment block
- all seams are graded to the correct width
- everything will be pressed properly
- and all the right finishes are applied

This little project may take me a while to finish though as,  hey I'm scared,  but I love this project so much,   I got to do it,  but I want to do it totally right.

I'll be keeping you posted

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

The Patternmaker's Update: It's Been A Crazy Week

Okay,  so on our holiday weekend I'd planned to get my first portfolio piece completed,  I was raring to go and then I sat at the sewing machine to figure out stitch length and thread tension that would work for this beautiful but thin and slippery fabric I want to sew the lemon tulip lingerie pattern out of and...

The little rubber wheel that creates the traction necessary for new bobbin thread to be wound around a bobbin had melted into a gross black goo around the wheel it was supposed to be on.  And that wasn't all,  there was a piece of broken plastic from the socket that held the top thread spool,  so there was only one thing left to do. Open her up and see if I could fix the problem(s).  I'd found a crayon in the machine as well as the clip of marker top,  my daughter's doing for sure.

I've fixed a sewing machine I had before,  several times,  with success.   And I also repaired a scroll saw,  on my own,  again with success.  I took time and patients and all but I did it so I had no inhibitions about opening up this Brother sewing machine and seeing if I could get it up and running again.   Well after all was said and done, with an attempt to fit the wheel with a quintupled rubberband and then when I decided it wouldn't work because it was getting shredded,  I headed for the toy box in search of a little car.    Have you ever seen them? Little hard black rubber wheels,  they might have been just the thing I needed,  I did find one,  and I did fit 2 of the cars wheels on the bobbin mechanism,  but when I tried to run the machine, they too began to melt.  Yuck,  you know?   Okay,  so maybe the Brother company has the right wheel...I'll just have to email them,  I thought.

Then,  the needle bar somehow got misaligned too,  so that the needle completely missed the bobbin case.  No luck at all trying to figure that one out.  I did what I always do, compare adjacent pieces,  look for what looks like it's fitted wrong,  was there something sitting in the plastic case the wrong way?  Nothing made any sense.  Why did this time have to be a problem I couldn't fix?

WELL,  my husband came to my rescue and told me he'd get a new on for me on Monday,  which he did along with a new computer to replace this beat up HP laptop that's been giving me a hard time.   He's been watching me work on these computer patterns and get article projects done and realized I'm dead serious about what I'm into so he's offered his loving support and got me a beautiful new Singer sewing machine and a cool new Acer computer.

So I've been setting up the computer with all the programs and things I use to work and getting a new client's pattern completed (I actually just sent it off a few minutes ago).  It was my very first corset pattern for a designer in Saudi Arabia.  I hope they keep me on as a client.   It takes me a little longer to do work for a new client because I usually need to first prepare a brand new sloper for them from scratch,  they don't give me one.  I'm not sure why,  I guess they don't know about it.  I did hear that companies and designers are supposed to provide the patternmaker with the sloper in the size they want though.

Any while doing a bit of research this week also had me discover the reason behind the necessity of perfection in a patternmaker's work.   Thought it was just a pickiness thing?   Think again.  A person familiar with home sewing could easily make this mistake (I did for a while and I am a perfectionist) but the thing about homesewers,  as Kathleen Fasanella puts it, " homesewers expect too much from themselves"  they're highly skilled,  where as the people working in a factory are not and don't need to be.   This is why the pattern has to be perfect,  flawless without so much as a 1/32 of an inch mistake,  yes I'm not kidding you,  don't even allow yourself a 1/32 of an inch mistake.

Because,  the people working the factory sewing machines only have a small part of the garment to sew and they may not be aware how everything else is supposed to fit together they also won't know if something is a little off.  And the mistake will go from one person to the next,  no one knowing how to fix the problem, with chances being that the one mistake will cause additional mistakes and you'll end up with imperfect garments.   The horror.   And everyone will know it was your fault,  you are the one who made a mistake!

Any way,  how do you solve/prevent this problem all together, simple,  when you're working on the computer,  (God bless these things) set your nudge distance to 0.031 (this is the 1/32" I was talking about)  and work under a microscope,  in CorelDraw 9 for example,  this means zooming in till 1" is about 5" or 6" on the screen.  Make sure all your points,  lines and curves match up everywhere under this "microscope" and remind yourself that this attention to detail is what will set you apart from the rest.

And just for the sake of reference,  should any of you be using CorelDraw 9 to draft patterns,  like myself,  when you've powerclipped something into a 'container' to be able to cut it up into separate,  perfect panels,  make sure your cutting path ( this can be a straight or shaped line) isn't closed.  If it is a closed path for some reason the interior of this path gets rid of the pattern piece you're trying to slice through.

Okay,  so now I've got another dress pattern to do for my client in New York and I have to watch the dvd that came with the Singer sewing machine so I can start sewing with it fairly quick.  Maybe this weekend,  I'm hoping,  unless something else comes up.   But my deadline is either by the end of this month of April,  or at the very least the first week or two of May.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

I dedicate everything to my mom

This morning as I was laying out my pattern pieces and the fabric pieces I cut from them,  I recieved a call from Manitoba that my mom had suffered a massive heart attack around 8:15 am.   She never made it to the hospital.  

My parents had a sudden divorce several years ago after being together around 31 years, in the end it didn't work out and my mom left to live out on the prairies again.  I was always very close to my mom but this situation seemingly evaporated our active closeness to the point where months would go by,  even a year and she never called.   I had to find her number through a bit of investigation.   The guy she was living with couldn't even keep the phone lines open.

She never even got the chance to see her little grand daughter,  my daughter Salma and her grandson all grown up into a big almost 5 year old boy.   Before she let me know that she was leaving my father,  I had a dream that I had lost her,  she was beside me one minute and was gone the next after telling me she'd meet up with me outside the building to go home.  When I looked for her she wasn't there...in the dream I had the unmistakable feeling that I'd just completely lost her.

And here I was, this morning,  looking over the work I'd started,  after this terrible phone call.   I wouldn't have been into this work,  atleast it wouldn't have been as ingrained in me if it hadn't been for my mom.   She'd take me to the fabric and pattern department in Woodwards department store downtown back in the 80s and we'd be there for hours looking through pattern books and searching for just the right fabric.

She would get a pattern, cut it out,  lay it out on the living room floor and I'd watch her put everything together into a beautiful garment.   I was always facinated by this and wanted to learn the secrets of why the pattern pieces where shaped the way they were.   She'd sew them on her shiny black and gold enameled Singer sewing machine.   As she turned the wheel,  it would sound like a tiny train.   She put me on the path I'm on today.  

She always talked about making the world a better place,  helping both people and animals in whatever way was needed and protecting the environment out of the sincere love for everything that God created.   She talked about these things as long as I can remember.   I loved that about my mom.   I loved that about my mom.  I always wanted to be like her,  but go a step up and be able to make her dreams a reality.   To make an impact,  a growing one, throughout my life so that I leave the world as a better place than when I came into it.  So the world's children and other innocent creatures will be able to face a safer,  brighter future than the one I thought I was facing.

Everything I do in my life,  every success and difference that I am able to make,  I dedicate to my mom.   The beautiful spirit that nourished and cared for the best in me.  I'm setting out to fulfill your dreams mom and try to raise my children to be the way you wanted me to be.  I love you with all my heart.   And I'm sorry for the misunderstanding between us that happened after you left.  

Patternmaking And Pattern Alteration On My Design

I sewed the scalloped neckline facing onto the bodice yesterday.  To all us sewing moms out there, who haven't done this sort of thing yet,  don't do it with a wiggly baby in your lap, it's not going to turn out the way you want it.  Big No No.  However,  here are a few "to do" notes, sew sharp curves very slowly,  think of machine stitching as taking one stitch at a time,  one stitch at a time,  stop and go,  stop and go.

The result will be a smoother stitching line,  greater symmetry.  I also lightly marked my stitching line this time to 'see' better what I was doing (See Below).  I also loosened up the pressure foot tension on my Singer sewing machine,  just wish it could have been lightened up even more,  as the fabric still wasn't as free to move as I would have liked (my make of machine only goes so far though).

I was thinking though,  this type of sewing is why it would be great to actually have a manual sewing machine still.

Once I did the fitting,  I realized it had too much ease,  here a few pictures to show it...

eeek!  too much ease in the pattern

I would need to distribute the ease take up evenly between the side seams,  front and back darts as well as between the bustline and midriff level so as not to through the pattern off balance.  So I took

3/8" from the side seams and 1/8" from each dart which is actually a total of 1" and 3/4" ease take up.  I'll have to take the changes to the midriff band as well.

Here are the results after I made the necessary pattern alterations...

pattern alterations made,  much better fit

Will have to adjust the armscye curves too... what to do about the bias cut sleeve pattern?   I didn't want to have a seam,  but I'll create 3/8" underarm seam without cutting it open.  I'll just clip it at the soft foldline and turn it inside out (as the  bias cut tulip sleeve was cut on a fold to prevent it from having a completely sewn sleeve hem).

If I had the money,  I would have made a muslin out of some organic cotton or something,  like I was supposed to,  totally you know?  But,  I didn't,  and I would also buy some additional fabric to make a new version because this light weight yellow damask fabric is so delicate.

I need proper pressing equipment too!

I was looking at a Calvin Klein collection afterwards though from back in 1991,  that was a good year,  miss those days, Check it out here from Fashion Channel on YouTube:

  

...and it had me thinking.   I may choose a simpler,  clean,  fitted cut for my next portfolio garment design.   After all is said and done, if a 'promotional' project is to ambitious before it has the proper backing (in either knowledge,  skill or finances) it can do more damage in a way, then the good. it will do.  But only in a way.

I've learned a lot though,  still on,  and it felt good to finally produce something from a pattern I drafted on the computer.  In the end,  it wasn't actually my computer drafting that was even the problem.  Everything was fine there,  I just didn't know how to draft that kind of pattern correctly (cropped midriff lingerie style garment)  and which finishing elements would work best for that kind of design.  That's why I'm going to be buying that lingerie book though, "Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear" by Ann Haggar.  I can't wait.

I really should have used a fine hand rolled hem along that scalloped edge,  I was just hoping to get a crisp clean edge with the faced hem,  next time I'll clip the hem allowance and roll it in place along a pre-sewn guideline.  That should work much better.  However,  I think I'd still like to use the facing approach with the neckline because I really like how it "stands" on the neckline,  see below...  I just love that.

So today,  I'm going to hopefully continue work on the skirt portion of this outfit,  that is if I'm able to get a little time.  I've got to take my kids out again to the park,  can't miss that,  especially not on a day like this.


If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

New Clients And How To Plan Out Your Digital Patternmaking Process

People are still contacting me about my patternmaking services even though I haven't refreshed my add since the first time I posted it.   I do wish communication with people who contact me was consistent.   Things happen though,  one lady has had an unexpected tragedy in her family,  this is usually a time consuming disaster in anyone's life,  however,  I think some people just starting out can get easily side tracked,  like one fella I was talking to,  that reminds me,  I should email him again see what happened to him.  

Never be afraid or put off emailing people,  it's how to stay in touch.   Don't always assume that people have changed their mind about you,  it's just that there's so many things to do in work and life that if your services aren't needed "right now" than you may not hear from them in a while.  However,  this can put you at risk of being forgotten or shied away from.   People will be like,  "Gee, maybe she's forgotten about me and maybe I better contact someone else because she's probably gotten real busy,  it's not like she's contacted me recently"  You know what I mean?

So contact your contacts, hehehe,  it won't hurt and they won't bite.   I'm going to contact that guy right now... be right back.

Done.   And they got back to me already too,  so cool,  you got to love clients who are that fast :)  .   So here it is,  the fella I was talking about is just taking care of all the necessary prep work, he's got 3 shows coming up all in one month and one of my lady clients is going to send me a payment for some work I've done already.

Now for the Digital Patternmaking Process:  

As I've done this several times already,  I've worked out a step by step system for setting up and completing a digital pattern in the most efficient and time effective way,  here it is:

1.  pick out your sloper in the right size and type

2.  don't get rid of anything in your pattern vector doc,  you may need it for reference,  alterations or even another pattern so keep everything and copy everything too

3.  copy your sloper into the new garment pattern file making sure that front and back side seams have been aligned perfectly then separate a copy of them on a separate page (within the same vector file) but keep them on the same level (waist and bust lines are aligned across the page)  this will help you keep your pattern drafting in correct orientation.

4.  do your garment shells first

5.  have a copy of all the necessary pattern markings you'll need ready on the outside of your pattern's vector page

6.  group front and back pattern blocks then place them one on t0p the other with side seams matching

7.  true up your pattern blocks and place your pattern markings

8.  plan out your facings/interfacings

9.  mark them accordingly

10. create your seams,  plackets and hems

11.  make as many copies of these front and back sandwiched blocks as other pattern pieces you'll be needing,  for example if you need armscye,  front and back facings,  make a copy of the block 'sandwich' for each separate piece

12.  ungroup the pattern block sandwiches and delete each unnecessary piece till you have each pattern piece you need from each group of front and back pattern block 'sandwiches'

13.  group each new piece with their own separate pattern markings

14.  arrange in order on the page,  save again (do this often,  make it almost like breathing)

15.  export a copy as a jpeg and send it to your client and another one to yourself preferably in gmail should anything happen to your computer you'll still have your work in an email account that won't get rid of it

In my next blog post I hope to have a few pictures of my "lemon tulip lingerie" number as I'm almost done with the pattern.  Just have to do those pretty little tulip sleeves.   Slow going only because I've also been working on my clients projects.   I'll have it completed before long though,  no worries.


If you'd like to check out my fashion or eco friendly fashion resources lenses here are their links, feel free to drop me a note if you like what you see/read, I'll be happy to hear from you:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Design Illustrations For My Patternmaking Portfolio

Here are my two illustrations for the designs I've done for my portfolio, all colored in with AdobePhotoshop,  I'm starting to really love that program.   And for all who may be interested,  I know my work is a far cry from professional,  but to get that water color wash look,  I used the "wet edges" brush option for the shape dynamicked "paint brush" I used.  Makes me wish I wouldn't have missed Ludmila Adam's free webinar tutorials for AdobePhotoshop,  you can find out about that on her Fashion Chalkboard facebook page here: http://www.facebook.com/illustrator.for.fashion?sk=wall  As for my two designs,  one's lingerie and the other one is summertime outer wear.   I'm both excited and intimidated by this project "...oh so cool,  so pretty and then...oh my God,  moment of truth,   will I be able to deliver excellently?"   Hehehe,  yeah,  I'll do good.   Just wish the sewing machine I've got to work with was a little better.  I'll get around it,  I usually do.

The reason I've chosen these kinds of designs for my porfolio pieces is for several things, 

1.  they can be kind of complicated to execute
2.  they are interesting
3.  they can't be so simply made from ordinary kinds of patterns, they show that I have the skills to edit,  slash and spread and even think out of the box to design/draft a pattern

And these are all things you want prospective clients to know you can do.   After these,  I'll add some normal pieces to demonstrate that I can produce balanced and even patterns.  Think I'll do a suite and a princess style slip,  with some detailing to add interest.


If you'd like to check out my fashion or eco friendly fashion resources lenses here are their links, feel free to drop me a note if you like what you see/read, I'll be happy to hear from you:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

I'm Back From The Dead Ya'll

Oh, the problems that hit you when you're trying to make it in life. My computer broke down, did I tell you that? (I have to use my brother's now, a total bummer) Then I've been unable to log into my blogs here, not been getting too much money made and been up to my ears in anemia and too much house work and errands and not enough sleep. Well, I'm taking a breather right now, sort of.

Here's a little change in plans, thanks to a friend of mine, I'm going to be working on writing and working on a cool fashion related web site, unlike anything else on the web right now. You guys (all my fellow fashion enthusiasts out there) are going to love it. I'm not giving away any secrets yet though, you'll have to wait at least a month or so I'm thinking but, I'm working on it. Anyway, I've got to go for now.

Have a good one

Finally Working On My Collection Again

Whoa, I'm finally working on my collection here again. Got 3 color ways I'm playing around with, I just love them. Can't wait to get started on the samples, but I've got to focus on finishing the presentation for this collection first and putting food on the table. My boss hasn't gotten around to giving me more written assignments, let's just say I'm scared. More bills too, well my philosophy is this, when you have to wait, don't wait, do something else that needs to get done, no matter how scared you are, be productive while you're waiting, work on something you've been working on and be careful not to start anything new. This painful delay gives me a chance to work on my collection so I should be grateful, just grateful with an ulcer starting but never the less grateful.

Also I've got to concentrate on what I need to do to get the collection illustration ready into a complete presentation/portfolio, 1. color everything in the different color ways 2. do some from behind 3. create the front and back 'flat' views (this is to show the basic pattern shapes, shows you know what you're doing, helps out the pattern makers) 4. arrange everything on your final 'support' whether it be digital or not 5. decorate the support to complete the 'look' or 'mood' After that you're done and ready to show the world your work or get busy putting together your samples or rather both at the same time.

A Few More Set Backs But Keep On Kicking

Hey now, my computer just broke down a few days ago and business is going to be seriously slowed down for a while. I've got to redo all the the Photoshop line touch-up stuff on my collection pieces and I've got my bills to pay. Well this is a littel goods news/bad news kind of thing. The credit place gave me another chance with the situation I keep telling them (my brother skipped out on me and racked up his cell phone bill with premium calls, I've got a 900 dollar mistake on my hands) and I'm not working a regular job, yes it's no exageration it's extremely hard to keep the food on the table (I wasn't able to afford toillete paper and toothpaste okay, it's no joke) Any way though, my boss has apparently got more writting work coming my way, I hope I've got a bit of a raise coming, cross my fingers, so I'll be able to swing with, God willing. Lord knows I'm willing to work for it. One of my brothers is here helping me pay the bills so together we should be able to pull through.

Also, the folks at Lutterloh pattern making system got back to me and said that yes I can put together different patterns to come up with my own patterns! So yeah, I'm going to get that package as soon as I can and then, then, I'll be able to create my own samples! I'm so excited by the thought of this, all I have to do is get through this financial crunch and I'll get another chance.

Also, I haven't been able to get any volunteer models in so that I can do my makeup artist course, well, I had another idea I'm going to advertise it like this:

Free Elf Cosmetic High Quality Product try out/Marylin Makeover

Somebody should be interested in that, I'll see how it flies...

Any way I got to get to work here, keep you posted

Collection in Progress

Well, last night I managed to get quite a lot of work done, not only did I get my mood board done finally but I prepped all my designs for coloring on the computer. This involved opening up all the files in Adobe Photoshop 7 and...

1. Converting them to grey scale, this allows you to more efficiently 'clean up' your image later on. Basically what your doing is extracting your line work and throwing the rest away.

2. Go to brightness and contrast and increase both values to 50 and hit okay.

3. Take the magic wand and make sure it's value is at 50

4. You need to get rid of the grey background of your work so you can complete your images, with the magic wand choose a grey area that's a bit lighter than the middle tone of entire background quality and click.

5. The selection is not always perfect but you can do a light clean up after ward with a 'soft' eraser, it's better than getting rid of some of your line work, you don't want to waste time doing that.

6. Get your image back to RGB (or CMYK if you're planning to print them out after, wise choice although not my favorite because blues and greens in cmyk are a lot duller in hue and tend to be more of a challenge to use)

7. When you're ready to color them up create a layer on your image and make sure it's in 'Overlay' mode so you don't have to re-do line work as it will just show through your colors. You're done for now!

I'll keep you posted on my progress hope the info helps you all out :)

My First Digital Mood Board

Hi everybody, here is my first ever mood board period. I usually just keep the ideas all in my head, but professionally you can't do that any way so I've got to change my practices. Be sure to let me know what you think. Thanks

Ahh Life, Another day Another delay

It's alright, I've been dealing with this for years, any way a little secret I've learnt that if you perpetually think about what you're going to do to achieve your goal before you actually go through with it, it'll go smoother and faster than if you just sat down and did. Well that only goes so far. Had to catch up with some funds, my home job employer has given me some lower pay pieces of work to do so it's consumed my time and I've been feeling really worn out with my little daughter having a growing spurt while she's on the breast full time, ahhhh! Bare with me.

I've recently found out about a pattern making system (lutterloh)I want to get my hands on, for $125 I can get it and I've got my mind set on it after I email them and ask can I use the system to create my own patterns from it, give or take a few changes/modifications, and the creative such, design lines will always be a custom job, that's what it's all about, but you want your basic pattern to be somewhat conventional unless you're izzy miyaki or balenciaga, I don't even like their stuff although it is a break and a sometimes eye opening lead into creative thinking.

I prefer Alexander McQueen and John Galliano myself, LLOOVVEE THEM!

Well as for my mood board for my collection, I've managed to get all the pictures off the internet for it, and now all I have to do is put it all together in adobe and decide on some color way variations, (I apologize if I said this already in an earlier post) Also for my collection designs themselves, I've got to start working on those, first repairing the line work, you do that by first putting the photos to grey scale in adobe, then enhancing the lines. Then you convert the images back to rgb and you're set to go with your color work.

When I got my mood board finished I'll post it here.

Bye for now everybody, got to make the weekend mean something for my husband :)

Mood Board Delay

Well now, yesterday I wanted to put together a digital mood board with three color ways and everything that led to my new collection. However my brothers popped on by for a surprise visit. And my day went to hell, then I got busy with my virtual assistant job, then my house work then more VA...you get the picture. Hopefully, today will be different, only thing is, today I'm worried about one of my cats again, one took of two weeks ago and never came back, now another one has taken off last night and hasn't returned yet. I'm going to get ulcers I assure all of you. this kitty is fat too although she's obsessed with running around outside and I'm afraid she might be so fat and slow that she got hit by a car. Then again maybe she's just hiding from the rain. I really hope so. If I'm losing my cats out here though I'm going to start getting suspicious of my neighbors. Mood board, mood board, I have to think about my mood board. You know those are supposed to be put together before your collection, I know that. It's just that it was so well ingrained in my mind that I never needed to put it together for my own use and inspiration, I'm just now putting it together for the sake of my portfolio. :) I'm not showing off, I'm just talented.

Back to the Grid But With Plans

Always have your plans, gotta make some money today though, get back to my fashion collection when I've got a gap of time available. trying to develop some plans with a friend from US of Africa and take care of my kids and my sick cats. One of the kittens have swollen front paws and diarrhea and I don't even have grocery money let alone vet fees to spend on him. I'm trying some ground black seed though, it's apparently a powerful anti-microbial and immune support. And mustard seed powder, you may not know this but it contains the now coveted selenium, anti-cancer agent as well as other things. I'll start a new blog for my cats and herbal log there.